- Solar Charge Regulator is designed to control the charging from solar panel into battery, and the power draw from the battery to outputs.
- * The Solar Charge Regulator is able to handle charge and discharge from 12V battery
- * It provides over-charging, over-discharging, short circuit, over-load and reverse polarity protection. Therefore, keep the whole solar system at proper working condition.
- * This solar charge regulator uses the latest Microcomputer-chip to realize intelligence control
- PWM (pulse width modulation) chargng circuit is used for higher efficiency
Technical Details
Product details
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Product Description
Solar Charge Regulator is designed to control the charging from solar panel into battery, and the power draw from the battery to outputs.
Feature:
* The Solar Charge Regulator is able to handle charge and discharge from 12V battery
* It provides over-charging, over-discharging, short circuit, over-load and reverse polarity protection. Therefore, keep the whole solar system at proper working condition.
* This solar charge regulator uses the latest Microcomputer-chip to realize intelligence control
* PWM (pulse width modulation) chargng circuit is used for higher efficiency
* Big LCD display available for easy monitoring
Technical data:
* Max. Solar Input current: 30A
* Max. Solar Voltage Input (Voc): 50V
* Max. load current: 30A
* Over charge voltage: 14.5V +- 0.2V
* Over discharge voltage: 10.7V +- 0.2V
* No-load loss: < 18mA
* Voltage loss charging Circuit: <=0.4V
* Voltage loss of discharging circuit: <=0.2V
* Operating temperature: -25 'C to 60 'C
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
This is quite a good regulator, but beware of the sequence for connecting the regulator,
wire connecting
A=battery
B=Solar panels
C=12 volt lighting outputs (if used)
Having read a previous review in which it was stated that they had no idea why they had to connect certain wires in a certain order. i will help out on that and give a few hints..
I have been dealing with solar panels since the 1975 ..oh yes we used them then..and things haven't changed much except the advent of the microcontroller chip solar pwm charger with their mosfet inputs ect..such tech words for a bunch of metal bits covered in plastic...SO
Always "unless stated otherwise" <connect the battery wires first of all> as a system storage may be 12 or 24 volts,this allows the regulator to assess its voltage mode required to work correctly to your system, as most handle both voltages there is no problem,(it will be marked on it if it is only 1 type of voltage) after this you can connect the solar panels, I have sent a few regulators to the graveyard and used them as spare parts to repair others.
YOU WILL BLOW THESE REGULATORS UP IF YOU CONNECT BATTERIES TO THE SOLAR INPUT.SO HAVE RESPECT FOR THEM JUST AS YOU DO FOR THE BATTERY/S AND PANELS.
I have come across some systems small =300amp and couple of panels 60wts etc which don't have shut off switches and fuses...YOU MUST USE THEM, you can get the high ampere switches for batteries from most car dealers for small systems and Anl fuses and holders from the same.. i.e a 1.8k invertor will be fused at around 300amp under full load ..alot to go bang.(work out what fuse you need for your invertor and use one, i always have a led torch and 2 spare fuses, Always take the -0v line from the invertor to its case then the battery and then to a stake in the ground ..like a short copper pipe.
The regulators have a different type of input mode in handling current and voltage from the panels, the mosfets will just pop and render smoke if any charger or battery is connected to this input, thats bye bye regulator.
The regulator although good is quite easy to destroy , it has a acceptable protection but not great and will pop if you go shorting wires or not disconnecting loads and panels in the correct order.
every 10wts used = approx 1amp, remember to calculate your invertor losses and power standy usage..nominal figures stand at approx
80% effcient @0.8A standy for 300wt pure sinewave(that 8amp every 10hours switched on)
to 95% efficent @ 0.5A stand by for 300wt modified sine (thats 5amps for every 10 hours switched on)
Hint. if you only want to use for lights..buy a light switch project kit or ready built one and drill a small hole in the invertor box next to the on off switch , connect across the switch and power the lighting kit board directly from the battery,set for best lighting swtich on /off...so for at least 8 hours of the day you now save a lot of amperes,do this only if your happy to drill in to your invertor box and can solder with confidence.
It can not be overstressed enough on the correct order of connection and then leaving it alone to do its job.(do as the instructions say on the box)
If you are having a fall off in voltage it is possible to connect 1 or more panels directly to the batteries to max approx value to 5% of total battery ampere to
mantain a float voltage.(by passing the regulator)this gives a little extra ampere/higher voltage and as there are only max of 12 hours light in a day and less of charging ability so no worries here.ie 100amp battery = max panel ampere directly to battery =5amp
Remember the pwm these use are of a 3 phase charging type.. so your batteries will climb to a high voltage say about 14.5v then stablise and drop off to about 13.5/8.
then after a time as the current is reduced further it will go in to a float state or degassing or whatever name you want to call it,but it will be just checking and giving pulses when it checks battery fall off voltage, normal standing this can be around 12.5v to 13.8v , in 35 years i have seen no 2 systems the same on voltages in battery storage ,some are high some are slightly lower.even 2 exactly same systems.
it a numbers game ,but anyway the suns is free..hope this info help alittle, always seek advice if you are unsure of connections in your systems. battery amperes can be fatal also is acid and burns are horrendous, fire risks etc:
happy charging.and take care
wire connecting
A=battery
B=Solar panels
C=12 volt lighting outputs (if used)
Having read a previous review in which it was stated that they had no idea why they had to connect certain wires in a certain order. i will help out on that and give a few hints..
I have been dealing with solar panels since the 1975 ..oh yes we used them then..and things haven't changed much except the advent of the microcontroller chip solar pwm charger with their mosfet inputs ect..such tech words for a bunch of metal bits covered in plastic...SO
Always "unless stated otherwise" <connect the battery wires first of all> as a system storage may be 12 or 24 volts,this allows the regulator to assess its voltage mode required to work correctly to your system, as most handle both voltages there is no problem,(it will be marked on it if it is only 1 type of voltage) after this you can connect the solar panels, I have sent a few regulators to the graveyard and used them as spare parts to repair others.
YOU WILL BLOW THESE REGULATORS UP IF YOU CONNECT BATTERIES TO THE SOLAR INPUT.SO HAVE RESPECT FOR THEM JUST AS YOU DO FOR THE BATTERY/S AND PANELS.
I have come across some systems small =300amp and couple of panels 60wts etc which don't have shut off switches and fuses...YOU MUST USE THEM, you can get the high ampere switches for batteries from most car dealers for small systems and Anl fuses and holders from the same.. i.e a 1.8k invertor will be fused at around 300amp under full load ..alot to go bang.(work out what fuse you need for your invertor and use one, i always have a led torch and 2 spare fuses, Always take the -0v line from the invertor to its case then the battery and then to a stake in the ground ..like a short copper pipe.
The regulators have a different type of input mode in handling current and voltage from the panels, the mosfets will just pop and render smoke if any charger or battery is connected to this input, thats bye bye regulator.
The regulator although good is quite easy to destroy , it has a acceptable protection but not great and will pop if you go shorting wires or not disconnecting loads and panels in the correct order.
every 10wts used = approx 1amp, remember to calculate your invertor losses and power standy usage..nominal figures stand at approx
80% effcient @0.8A standy for 300wt pure sinewave(that 8amp every 10hours switched on)
to 95% efficent @ 0.5A stand by for 300wt modified sine (thats 5amps for every 10 hours switched on)
Hint. if you only want to use for lights..buy a light switch project kit or ready built one and drill a small hole in the invertor box next to the on off switch , connect across the switch and power the lighting kit board directly from the battery,set for best lighting swtich on /off...so for at least 8 hours of the day you now save a lot of amperes,do this only if your happy to drill in to your invertor box and can solder with confidence.
It can not be overstressed enough on the correct order of connection and then leaving it alone to do its job.(do as the instructions say on the box)
If you are having a fall off in voltage it is possible to connect 1 or more panels directly to the batteries to max approx value to 5% of total battery ampere to
mantain a float voltage.(by passing the regulator)this gives a little extra ampere/higher voltage and as there are only max of 12 hours light in a day and less of charging ability so no worries here.ie 100amp battery = max panel ampere directly to battery =5amp
Remember the pwm these use are of a 3 phase charging type.. so your batteries will climb to a high voltage say about 14.5v then stablise and drop off to about 13.5/8.
then after a time as the current is reduced further it will go in to a float state or degassing or whatever name you want to call it,but it will be just checking and giving pulses when it checks battery fall off voltage, normal standing this can be around 12.5v to 13.8v , in 35 years i have seen no 2 systems the same on voltages in battery storage ,some are high some are slightly lower.even 2 exactly same systems.
it a numbers game ,but anyway the suns is free..hope this info help alittle, always seek advice if you are unsure of connections in your systems. battery amperes can be fatal also is acid and burns are horrendous, fire risks etc:
happy charging.and take care
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
This item was ordered from the UK Amazon site for delivery to central France to fit my narrowboat. It arrived during the last week of August and the packaging was in good shape. I needed this controller to manage the electricity from an 80 Watt solar panel , which I hope to extend by adding more panels in the future. Without the controller the solar panel was giving 19.8 Volts around midday dropping off to 16 Volts by 5PM. Too high a voltage can seriously damage your batteries.
The connections were easy enough and the information/directions sheet reasonably clear to follow. There is an Input connection for the Solar Panel, an Outlet to the battery bank - I have 5 service batteries to charge plus a starter battery - and lastly, an outlet that can be sent to an inverter to turn 12V DC into AC. Very useful if you only want to use the solar panel for a small TV etc. .
Great emphasis was placed on the need to connect the battery first and THEN the solar panel, why I don't know.
There are two switching systems. One takes you through the current Battery voltage, then the current delivered by the solar panel and lastly the charge going to the appliances. The other switch shows the current state of the load on the whole system.
In use, I was surprised as to just how low the voltage from the solar panel was reduced. It came down to 12.5 volts which is below what I would like for charging the batteries. I would prefer 13.5 volts. Perhaps, this has more to do with the present state of the batteries than the controller, something that I shall have to investigate. The display is easy to read and there is an alarm that goes off if the batteries are too low or become disconnected. I found this last point out by accident. However, the alarm is rather quiet and not the sort of sound that would immediately attract your attention.
Though the drain is minimal when there is no charge from the panel - night time for example - I do intend to put a switch into the line from the solar panel to make disconnecting the controller from the solar panel easier to do.
In summary:
1. It certainly works and was easy to put into service.
2. The ability to have a feed directly to an inverter is a plus for me.
3. To my mind the final charging voltage seems to be too low at 12.5V.
4. The alarm could be a bit louder.
All in all it does seem to be a good purchase. Only time will tell whether or not a cheaper one would have done as well or better.
Would I recommend it to others? Answer: Yes!
Tony Littlejohn, Canal du Nievernais, central France.
The connections were easy enough and the information/directions sheet reasonably clear to follow. There is an Input connection for the Solar Panel, an Outlet to the battery bank - I have 5 service batteries to charge plus a starter battery - and lastly, an outlet that can be sent to an inverter to turn 12V DC into AC. Very useful if you only want to use the solar panel for a small TV etc. .
Great emphasis was placed on the need to connect the battery first and THEN the solar panel, why I don't know.
There are two switching systems. One takes you through the current Battery voltage, then the current delivered by the solar panel and lastly the charge going to the appliances. The other switch shows the current state of the load on the whole system.
In use, I was surprised as to just how low the voltage from the solar panel was reduced. It came down to 12.5 volts which is below what I would like for charging the batteries. I would prefer 13.5 volts. Perhaps, this has more to do with the present state of the batteries than the controller, something that I shall have to investigate. The display is easy to read and there is an alarm that goes off if the batteries are too low or become disconnected. I found this last point out by accident. However, the alarm is rather quiet and not the sort of sound that would immediately attract your attention.
Though the drain is minimal when there is no charge from the panel - night time for example - I do intend to put a switch into the line from the solar panel to make disconnecting the controller from the solar panel easier to do.
In summary:
1. It certainly works and was easy to put into service.
2. The ability to have a feed directly to an inverter is a plus for me.
3. To my mind the final charging voltage seems to be too low at 12.5V.
4. The alarm could be a bit louder.
All in all it does seem to be a good purchase. Only time will tell whether or not a cheaper one would have done as well or better.
Would I recommend it to others? Answer: Yes!
Tony Littlejohn, Canal du Nievernais, central France.
NEW 360W 12V 30A SOLAR PANEL CHARGE REGULATOR BATTERY. The product works well and well packed and promptly delivered.
The Instructions are poor and unclear and should be more comprehensive
Wayland Tunley
The Instructions are poor and unclear and should be more comprehensive
Wayland Tunley
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