As with several other reviewers, the starter broke after a few uses - obviously a common problem, at least it was early on (not a problem since repair tho'). However, initial disappointment was replaced with delight at the excellent 2 year warranty support - they picked it up, fixed it & brought it back :). It has always started fine after that (it needs a firm, fast tug - but not too hard); if it won't start, take a break, have a cuppa & then try again when you are fresh. Later, after much use, the safety cut-off stopped working, the rear handle was moving away from the body (the bar & chain were also worn but just by normal wear & tear). Again, initial disappointment changed to delight, when they replaced the entire saw under warranty, I was delighted. The choke on the new saw need coaxing to stay out sometimes but I can live with that. I've learnt a lot using this saw, it has cut a lot of wood (inc. a fallen ash trunk with a diameter almost twice the bar-length) and I have a pretty good feel for starting and using it now. It makes light work of sawing small logs for the woodburner (using the excellent, efficient and safe Wolfcraft/Oregon saw horse/rack).
Some suggestions:
1. Use fresh fuel, add the right amount of quality 2-stroke oil and mix before use.
2. As another reviewer pointed out, it is important to check & tension the chain before each use, and after any period of extended cutting - tensioning the chains is quick & easy, & does not require tools with this Ryobi (as some big name saws do). This will reduce wear/damage/chain coming off/over-heating/danger.
3. Make sure you always have plenty of proper bar oil (despite common myth, cooking oil doesn't have the tackifiers required to hold it on the chain). If the chain gets dry, things will heat up quickly and damage could occur and/or the chain come off.
4. A properly sharpened chain will cut straight and quickly, like a hot-knife through butter, making wood chips. A blunt or unevenly sharpened saw cuts poorly, might cut in a curve rather than straight, produces a lot of hear & will produce a lot of wear & tear on the user, saw, chain, bar and saw dust, rather than chips. Buy a chain sharpening kit and use it regularly, between each use of the saw, & whenever "an event" occurs (e.g. hit a nail/ground). The Husqvarna roller-file-guide is a simple, inexpensive gadget that will help ensure you get a superior, consistent result [see youtube on-line videos for chain sharpening guidance]. Don't forget to check & correct the chain's guide bar heights after it has been sharpened several times (the correct Oregon chain guide is the simplest/best I've found, compared to the Stihl/Husq).
Looking after the chain in use, keeping it sharp & even, & the bar clean and even, is an important part of using a chainsaw. If the chain gets damage, esp. underneath, that cannot be sharpened out, replace the chain - it is relatively cheap (new chain prices start around £5 on and go up to about £17 for a top-end replacement) and you'll have a nice factory sharp chain, which is safer, more efficient & less likely to damage you, the bar or the saw. Ryobi, like most manufacturers, use quality Oregon bars & chains on this product. Hardware stores that sell saws will often machine sharpen a chain for about £5 - possibly worth doing each year.
It includes an excellent 2 year warranty.