The Rough Guide to Morocco [Paperback]

From the Meditteranean coast, through four mountain ranges, to the empty sand and scrub of the Sahara, explore this extraordinary country with The Rough Guide to Morrocco. This fully-revised 8th edition contains insider tips and colour sections on architecture, markets, shopping, festivals and music, plus expanded coverage of Marrakesh. The full- colour section introduces the best Morrocco has on offer from the blue-washed walls of Chefchaouen to the vibrant craft displays of the souks. You’ll find evocative accounts of all the main sights including Casablanca’s Art Deco architecture to the unique Djemaa El Fna in Marrakesh, and the ancient monuments of Fes as well as practical information on trekking in the High Atlas, surfing on the Atlantic coast and camel-riding in the desert. Be inspired by dozens of photos and explore every corner with the clearest maps of any guide.

The Rough Guide to Morrocco is like having a local friend plan your trip!

The attractions of the individual regions are discussed in the chapter introductions. Broadly speaking, the coast is best enjoyed in the north at Tangier, beautiful and still shaped by its old "international" port status, Asilah and Larache; in the south at El Jadida; at Essaouira, perhaps the most easy-going resort; or at remote Sidi Ifni. Agadir, the main package tour resort, is less worthwhile - but a functional enough base for exploration.

Inland, where the real interest of Morocco lies, the outstanding cities are Fes and Marrakesh. The great imperial capitals of the country's various dynasties, they are almost unique in the Arab world for the chance they offer to witness some city life that, in patterns and appearance, remains in large part medieval. For monuments, Fes is the highlight, though Marrakesh, the "beginning of the south", is for most visitors the more enjoyable and exciting.

Travel in the south - roughly beyond a line drawn between Casablanca and Meknes - is, on the whole, easier and more relaxing than in the sometimes frenetic north. This is certainly true of the mountain ranges. The Rif, which can feel disturbingly anarchic, is really for hardened travellers; only Chaouen, on its periphery, could be counted a "holiday spot". But the Atlas ranges (Middle, High and Anti-) are beautiful and accessible.

Hiking in the High Atlas, especially around North Africa's highest peak, Djebel Toubkal, is in fact something of a growth industry. Even if you are no more than a casual walker, it is worth considering, with summer treks possible at all levels of experience and altitude. And, despite inroads made by commercialization, it remains essentially "undiscovered" - like the Alps must have been in the last century.

Equally exploratory in mood are the great southern routes beyond - and across - the Atlas, amid the oases of the pre-Sahara. Major routes here can be travelled by bus; minor ones by rented car or local taxi; the really remote ones by four-wheel-drive vehicles or by getting lifts on local camions (lorries), sharing space with the market produce and livestock.

The oases, around Tinerhir, Zagora and Erfoud, or (for the committed) Tata or Figuig, are classic images of the Arab world, vast palmeries stretching into desert horizons. Equally memorable is the architecture that they share with the Atlas - bizarre and fabulous mud kasbahs and ksour, with Gothic-looking turrets and multi-patterned walls.

Climate

As far as the climate goes, it would be better to visit the south - or at least the desert routes - outside midsummer, when for most of the day it's far too hot for casual exploration, especially if you're dependent on public transport. But July and August, the hottest months, can be wonderful on the coast and in the mountains; there are no set rules.

Spring, which comes late by European standards (around April to May), is perhaps the best overall time, with a summer climate in the south and in the mountains, and water warm enough to swim in on both the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts. Winter can be perfect by day in the south, though be warned that desert nights can get very cold - a major consideration if you're staying in the cheaper hotels, which rarely have heating. If you're planning to hike in the mountains, it's best to keep to the months from April to October unless you have some experience of snow conditions.

Weather conditions apart, the Islamic religious calendar, and its related festivals, will have the most seasonal effect on your travel. The most important factor is Ramadan, the month of daytime fasting; this can be a problem for transport, and especially hiking, though the festive evenings do much to compensate. See "Festivals" in the Basics section following for details of its timing, as well as that of other festivals. --This text refers to an alternate Paperback edition.