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Rock Climbing Anchors
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Review
"The classic text on mountain climbing... this is the book to read if you plan to venture out to the high places people go because they're there."
Product Description
This is a rock climbing instructional book. Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into "Rock Climbing Anchors". This 2007 entry in the "Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series", for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
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First Sentence
One of the beauties of rock climbing is its amazing diversity. Read the first page
Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
One of the beauties of rock climbing is its amazing diversity. Read the first page
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Front Cover | Copyright | Table of Contents | Excerpt | Index | Back Cover
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
I've read the first edition of John Longs two books on Anchors once or twice every year for the past ten years before hitting rock. I decided to buy this book after reading that recent tests had raised issues concerning the equalization on cordelettes and the thinking in JL's book had changed. Reviews on Amazon.com strongly recommended this book and one in particular specifically said that it addressed the recent issues "even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options." - That John Long has reissued his book on Anchors in response to these 'issues' also prompted me to buy an updated text.
To my mind there's nothing new in this book. It introduces the equalizer or 'equalette' and uses it in the same situations where a sliding x with extension knots would be used in the past.
The recent issues are dealt with as:
"The cordelette rigging method has come under some fire because it does not spread the load equally among the pieces, especially if the loading direction changes or if one leg is short. If you have bomber anchors equalization is not so important, because any of them can hold the maximum forces possible in a rock climbing fall. If the anchors aren't great (or you're not sure), or if the leader could take a high impact fall directly onto the belay anchors, a rigging method that equalizes the load better might be safer"
Cordelettes are still shown in quite a few of the anchor setups, as well as a number of different ways of rigging them.
It's a good book, but doesn't add much that isn't in John Longs first book, and personally I found that one an easier and clearer read, especially where it comes to individual gear placements. The second half of JL's first edition has a large photo of a different anchor on each page and a discussion of how it is rigged and how it could be rigged better etc. Pictures in this book are much smaller and, I think, not as well explained as to why one rigging is better than another in particular situations.
If you have JL's first edition I'd recommend taking on board the quoted paragraph above concerning the issues and google 'equalette'.
To my mind there's nothing new in this book. It introduces the equalizer or 'equalette' and uses it in the same situations where a sliding x with extension knots would be used in the past.
The recent issues are dealt with as:
"The cordelette rigging method has come under some fire because it does not spread the load equally among the pieces, especially if the loading direction changes or if one leg is short. If you have bomber anchors equalization is not so important, because any of them can hold the maximum forces possible in a rock climbing fall. If the anchors aren't great (or you're not sure), or if the leader could take a high impact fall directly onto the belay anchors, a rigging method that equalizes the load better might be safer"
Cordelettes are still shown in quite a few of the anchor setups, as well as a number of different ways of rigging them.
It's a good book, but doesn't add much that isn't in John Longs first book, and personally I found that one an easier and clearer read, especially where it comes to individual gear placements. The second half of JL's first edition has a large photo of a different anchor on each page and a discussion of how it is rigged and how it could be rigged better etc. Pictures in this book are much smaller and, I think, not as well explained as to why one rigging is better than another in particular situations.
If you have JL's first edition I'd recommend taking on board the quoted paragraph above concerning the issues and google 'equalette'.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
A very wide ranging tour through the delights of setting anchors and placing gear. excellent for experienced climbers and mountaineers, and useful for those new to the outdoor game.
Another excellent book from these publishers, highly recommended.
Another excellent book from these publishers, highly recommended.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com:
23 reviews
20 of 20 people found the following review helpful
Best Anchors Book on the Market!!!!
11 Feb 2007
Format:Paperback
Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:
- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.
- He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.
- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.
- Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.
- Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.
- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.
- According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!
Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
- Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.
- He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.
- There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.
- Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.
- Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.
- All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.
- According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!
Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
Comprehensive and current!
9 Jun 2007
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
Very current and well organized book! Craig Luebben has obviously absorbed the new anchoring concepts that have cropped up recently and has helped me understand the advantages and disadvantages to each new method. A better book in my opinion than John Long's new anchor book. Nicely illustrated and un-biased, this is the book I am recommending to my immediate/advanced clients. -Dave Lottmann, EMS Climbing Guide
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
Best book on anchors
12 May 2008
Format:Paperback
I've been working my way into lead climbing and this is my favorite book on climbing anchors. After taking many classes and climbing with "old schoolers", the book really solidified what I had already learned and taught me many new modern techniques and "tricks". I also appreciate that the book presents the science behinds all the various anchor setups. Although there are hundreds of B&W photos, on occasion they are hard to decipher when showing complex setups. Climbing Anchors (second edition) by Long and Gaines is also an excellent book and covers the same material. Having read both has helped me tremendously!
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