Mark Shand's well-documented and amusing tale of his attempt to navigate the entire course of the Brahmaputra,father of all rivers, from its modest beginnings as a stream in the Himalayas to its conclusion in a delta the size of Belgium and Holland, is a thrilling compendium of the horrors and joys that face the modern traveller.
Shand who is clearly no stranger to India and has friends in both high and low places is almost stumped by the monolithic Indian bureaucracy ( Tony Blair should read this part prior to ordering his next 'nehru' jacket and setting up yet another committee ) before even departing on his run and then to follow through with a metaphor dear to Shand's heart, he is finally 'run out' by the Chinese whose occupation of Tibet means that his bid to navigate the Tsangpo gorges where the Brahmaputra emerges from the himalayas into the wilds of Assam is 'delayed until further notice'.
Like an old-fashioned Saturday Matinee, We'll possibly have to wait for the next instalment to get that part, but in the meantime,like 'Star Wars', we at least have episode 1, and what an adventure it is. Reminding us that no matter how much equipment we can muster or how many layers we might cocoon ourselves in,Shand's description of his mountain outfit reads like Vogue's 'must haves for the serious climber', Nature is still the ultimate arbiter and a force to be reckoned with. In the Himalayas, there are only 2 windows of opportunity
for travel and they're both brief and unpredictable. Nevertheless, Shand is determined to pay his respects to the Gods responsible for the river's beginning and despite altitude sickness, he reaches 'the magic mountain'sacred to Hindus and Buddists alike, before exchanging cold for heat and switching his attention to the north-eastern most tip of India, an area so protected and still the subject of a running war between the former and China,that virtually no visitors are allowed.
Here, where the Brahmaputra river emerges from the Himalayas, Shand's lyricism and love for the people of India, come to the fore and his descriptions of trekking the course of the river through the almost uncharted reaches of upper Assam are what travel books are about.The ability to take us to places we neither have the time, energy or even bravery to visit. Events become more comical and more heart-rending as he proceeds down the river together with his faithful pi-dog (read 'stray', but by now immortalized in Shand's sentimental eyes as a clear descendant of a rare hunting dog who can communicate with his master after unusually large amounts of opium or bhang have been consumed by both) and we're introduced to an almost comical cast of characters out of an Indian mikkado,everyone's favourite being the recurring fixer,friend and photographer, Aditya who could have stepped out of the pages of a Hunter Thompson story.Indeed this book could have come from the school of 'fear and loathing'journalism but for the obvious affection and admiration that the author has for Mother India.
highly recommended and looking forward to the next instalment!