...specifically plastic model things, that is. The way it works is by temporarily melting the plastic so that when it is placed in contact with another bit of model plastic, the two parts merge at the contact point. You can see then, it will only work on specific material - you can't use this on, eg ceramics, paper, fabrics, leather etc etc. You need something like UHU
for that. You may also note that, if you spalsh this stuff around, it will make nasty marks on the model's surface and it traditionally used by us less ept modellers to fog the clear plastic canopy of model aeroplanes (No! I wanted it to look like that! I'm simulating a steamy cockpit!)
Bear in mind that this glue is liquid, not gel, so it will flow if used liberally. Now, that's a good thing and it is a useful technique for some model gluing applications (gluing long seams, for instance) but it does mean that it needs to be used carefully. Consequently, the long applicator needle on the bottle is a fantastic idea and it makes precision gluing very easy.
The glue goes a long way and a bottle of this size will be sufficient for many models (my first bottle did about ten of them!) so it's excellent value.
Also remember that some more expensive models come with etched metal or resin components and this glue won't work with those either and common practise in the modelling world is to use a cyanoacrylate glue (e.g. Super Glue
for such parts). Finally, Zap Canopy Glue
is just the stuff for gluing model 'plane canopies. You can (within reason) quirt the stuff around as much as you like - it dries perfectly clear so it won't mark the transparencies.