This book is another corker from Reynaud. What's that now? 4 in the last year and a half or something?
I love Reynaud's idiosyncratic cookbooks. The way he has organized all but one of them around a theme, so 'Pork', 'Terrines' and now 'Roasts'. I loved 'Terrine', the obsessiveness, the inventiveness of writing a book with such a vast array of dishes all centered around terrine-moulds. Those qualities are still present in 'Rotis', but it's a cookbook I'll find myself using much more often. I guess I'm more likely to shove something in a pan in the oven than in a terrine first, but that's my prejudice and I'll eat it.
I like the name of this book. It so much more captures the spirit than the English word 'Roasts' would have but I guess what a reader of this review is really wanting to know is, Are the recipes as good his other books?
I think the recipes are absolutely tremendous. They have the same rustic, honest charm, and they always (in my experience) work, and they always look and taste great. Reynaud's food is traditional, sure, but often stripped-back, uncomplicated, yet with a slight twist, a particular flavour-pairing that really works. He is a master of flattering meat and fish. The chapter on roasting fish is particularly interesting, exciting and tempting to me, with a couple of unusual tuna recipes and a delicious monkfish roast with cockles that I tried this evening to great success.
He resists repeating recipes, (I think... I haven't used a tooth-comb...) but there are thankfully a lot of overlaps in technique, style, humour etc. (I wouldn't have him any other way).