I first came to William Black via "Al Dente", his gastronomic tour of Italy. That book I found slightly unbalanced, concentrating too much on aspects of Italian history irrelevant to the country's food.
His book on Britain "The Land that Time Forgot" was better but failed to pick up on some interesting connections between different regions; Carlin peas may be eaten in Lancashire but are better known in the North East and it would have been interesting to note that both regions have similar folk tales connected to the eating of them.
This book however is a delight. His wife is French and her family feature in the book. Their presence raises this above the usual "Englishman abroad" narrative. This is a celebration of French regional cuisine and an introduction to the concept of 'Terroir'. It examines whether the defence of traditional local produce means that French cuisine has lost its way (I personally think its to be applauded).
History still features in this book but is more relevant to the argument than in 'Al Dente'. The chapter on the history of bread is particularly interesting, as too the origins of the restaurant.
All in all highly recommended.