Gerald Hirigoyen is from San Sebastien, that beautiful Atlantic coast town on the little crook neck between France and Spain. It is neither. It is Basque, from the striped colored cloth to the bright red pepper. Stay there and take pleasant day drives over to Bilbao (see the Guggenheim) and to Biarritz (19th century playground of Europe). Authentic Basque cookbooks are the devil to come by. This one rhymes well and is honest to the ham bone. If you want a book to drive a long or even a short party, come hither. Beginners welcome. Experts will find their nuggets.
This is a fine collection of Basque inspired tapas (for pintxos just say PEEN-chos) recipes, nicely organized and with wine parings. From griddle, beans, fried bites, little sandwiches, bites on bread, stews and braises, soups, salads to the skewers from which the book gets it's name (pinchers) these are treats. The back of the book offers recipes for panty items to have at your ready like piperade and basic sauces. You get a simple explanation of vinegars with a reduction tip to make moscatel vinegar as a usable substitute for aged (sweet sixteen plus) balsamic. Most balsamic we see is too young for anything but salad.
The Basque dinner hours are late and long. You cannot be fooling with complex timing and rigidity. This is food to ignite your party and fuel it through the wee hours. From "Figs Marinated in Sherry with Aged Goat Cheese and Basil", "Baby Beets, Cucumbers, Olives and Feta Skewers," "Caramelized Onions with Idiazabal Cheese", "Seared beef with Piquillo Pepper and Shallot Jam", to "Chicken Skewers with Yogurt-Mint Dipping Sauce" and "Duck Breast with Oranges and Green Olives".
The "Tomato and Watermelon Salad" sounds dissonant, but just taste the cucumber, avocado, herbs, vinegar and olive oil. These recipes are well written and easy to follow. Such recipes are a good introduction to cooking for the less experienced who need not feel intimidated to try; and for the 20-30 year old crowd who want something easy and tasty when you invite friends over without having to spend the day in the kitchen or spend a lot on money on dinner.
For those above thirty, this is the serious working part of the book. When we want to carry a stew that is new to all, look here. A pot, a ladle and a stack of bowls carry the day. No need to serve hot from the hob. Same with soups.
I have been pleased, usually, by the publications from Ten Speed Press in Berkeley. The pages are crisply and functionally laid out for us. The photography is not overbearing. The book is durably bound and made from heavy stock and seemingly, acid-free paper.