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At the gateway to the Mediterranean lie the two Pillars of Hercules: Gibraltar and Ceuta, in Morocco. Paul Theroux decided to travel from one to the other but taking the long way round.
His grand tour of the Mediterranean begins in Gibraltar and takes him through Spain, the French Riviera, Italy, Greece, Istanbul and beyond. He travels by any means necessary - including dilapidated taxi, smoke-filled bus, bicycle and even a cruise-liner. And he encounters bullfights, bazaars and British tourists, discovers pockets of humanity in war-torn Slovenia and Croatia, is astounded by the urban developments on the Costa del Sol and marvels at the ancient wonders of Delphi.
Told with Theroux's inimitable wit and style, this lively and eventful tour evokes the essence of Mediterranean life.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
23 of 23 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Engaging tale of Mediterranean Journey,
By Nosy Wombat (London, UK) - See all my reviews
This review is from: The Pillars of Hercules: A Grand Tour of the Mediterranean (Paperback)
I started reading this book with trepidation. The last Theroux book I read was "Kingdom by the Sea", a book that primarily sought to inform the reader about how smart the author was and how he didn't much like anywhere in England at all. It was with great surprise that I actually thoroughly enjoyed the book from cover to cover.
Theroux is from an academic background and this often shows in his writing. His text is can be ponderous and abstract - examining what it is to be alive and to be in a foreign place. Unlike "Kingdom", however, which was 90% in this style, "Pillars" is a lot more fresh and accessible. It should also be noted that Theroux's approach to travel is very individualistic - he takes the most pleasure from the most obscure places. He covers Barcelona in one page, Greece in 2, but spends a chapter on a remote village in Tunisia. This is perhaps the essence of his work. He concentrates squarely on the people in the places he visits, rather than the places himself. This stands sharply in contrast with the writings of the other popular travel writer, Bill Bryson, who seeks out the well known places on his travel and gives his forthright opinion of them. Theroux is more the dark shady traveller who mills around the edges of the sites and observes those who are there to see the sites. Overall, I found the book to be highly enjoyable. It gives great insight into the people and culture of the Mediterranean, but don't expect to use it as a planning book for your next holiday - it is definitely the tale of one man's journey.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars
Surprisingly good,
By Mr X "A reader" (London) - See all my reviews
This review is from: The Pillars of Hercules: A Grand Tour of the Mediterranean (Paperback)
I had previously read Theroux's 'Kingdom by the Sea' and have to say I intensely disliked it. So I was unsure about this book (which I'd bought before reading Kingdom) and it sat on my bookshelf for over 2 years.
But when I started to read this book I began to quite like it. I think that, as other reviewers have pointed out, the book is unconventional in a few ways. First, Theroux, unlike other travel writers does not pretend to enjoy the company of all those who he meets and it is refreshing to have a travel writer who admits he really dislikes some people who he describes meeting. Secondly, when visiting a country he doesn't head straight for the traditional sights but instead goes off the usual track and so gives the reader an insight into a country that he/she wouldn't get from reading other travellers' accounts. Thirdly, he travels off-season and so the stories he tells and people he meets are mainly of those who live and work in the places visited which certainly makes the book more interesting. In contrast to this, there is one chapter in which he takes a journey on a luxury cruise ship. I see that one of the other reviews felt this to be out of place but I thought it was a very funny chapter. Also it demonstrated the shallowness of much of modern tourism as the tourists on this luxury ship saw virtually nothing of the countries they visited and simply wanted to return to the ship as soon as they could; it makes you wonder why they bothered going at all! Anyway, this book has changed my view of Mr Theroux's merits as an author and has persuaded me to read more by him.
14 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Mild about the Med,
By
This review is from: The Pillars of Hercules: A Grand Tour of the Mediterranean (Paperback)
Definitely one of Theroux's better travelogues, perhaps because of the feeling that he actually quite enjoyed this tour. Sometimes in previous books I became tired with his underlying scorn for almost everything and everyone he sees, relating encounters mostly with the people he loathed. At first it is quite amusing, but eventually becomes wearing as you wonder if Theroux dislikes other people because he basically dislikes himself. In this book, however, he usually qualifies any caustic observations and attempts to see the positive side (although he cannot find one good thing to say about bullfighting. Thankfully.) The best chapter is on Albania, which is almost shocking. Can it really be that bad? And if it is, why didn't Theroux love it? The worst chapter is when he takes a freebie trip on a luxury cruise liner. What was the point of that? It just doesn't fit with the rest of the book. Nevertheless, I'd still recommend the Pillars of Hercules to anyone that has the taste for armchair travel.
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