9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.
Dave MacLeod is a climber based in the west highlands of Scotland. He is well known for his personal climbing achievements. He has climbed trad routes that have broken a new level of world class difficulty with Rhapsody E11 and Echo Wall E11. He has also climbed V13 in bouldering, 9a in sport climbing and XI in Scottish mixed climbing. His blog is one of the most popular climbers' blogs in the world and he has written extensively on training and improvement in climbing on his site and various other publications. His other main working activities are running a shop via his website, coaching climbers, and giving lectures. Dave and his wife Claire run Rare Breed Productions, making films, books and other creative things. Dave has a BSc in Physiology & sports science and an MSc in Medicine & science in sport & exercise.