9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.
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9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber
9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons.
Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber.
This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference.
About the Author
Dave MacLeod is a climber based in the west highlands of Scotland. He is well known for his personal climbing achievements. He has climbed trad routes that have broken a new level of world class difficulty with Rhapsody E11 and Echo Wall. He has also climbed V13 in bouldering, 9a in sport climbing and XI in Scottish mixed climbing. His blog is one of the most popular climbers' blogs in the world and he has written extensively on training and improvement in climbing on his site and various other publications. His other main working activities are running a shop via his website, coaching climbers, and giving lectures. Dave and his wife Claire run Rare Breed Productions, making films, books and other creative things. Dave has a BSc in Physiology & sports science and an MSc in Medicine & science in sport & exercise.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
32 of 33 people found the following review helpful
By Ben Adams
Format:Paperback
Just finished the book and I have to say it's incredibly helpful.
Throughout the book Dave describes a series of common mistakes climbers make, and I've filled the book with post-its where he's been describing a bad habit and I suddenly realised, "Damn, that's me!" It's far easier to work out which bits of advice you need to follow than a normal training manual, and Dave's holistic approach is far more likely to make you change your habits and improve than a book full of exercises and a caption saying "Do lots of this."
The sheer practical knowledge and experience Dave has is obvious, I don't think there's a single climber in the world who won't find themselves wincing as he describes a bad habit or thought process as though he's been watching them climb for years, and subsequently full of relief when he reveals practical steps that will help. Don't expect miracle cures, but do expect to realise the effect of identifying your mistakes and working hard at them is likely to be the same.
I think this is one of the most important climbing books out there: if, like me, you've spent your climbing career psyched but confused by the vast amount of information about climbing improvement this book puts into plain words where you're going wrong and how to put it right. There's nothing too complicated to understand, and nothing too obscure to mentally write off as personally irrelevant.
I will say that if you're a regular devotee of Dave's blog and have attended one of Dave's training lectures, a good chunk of the basic ideas will be familiar, but having it compiled and organised is still incredibly useful.
Throughout the book Dave describes a series of common mistakes climbers make, and I've filled the book with post-its where he's been describing a bad habit and I suddenly realised, "Damn, that's me!" It's far easier to work out which bits of advice you need to follow than a normal training manual, and Dave's holistic approach is far more likely to make you change your habits and improve than a book full of exercises and a caption saying "Do lots of this."
The sheer practical knowledge and experience Dave has is obvious, I don't think there's a single climber in the world who won't find themselves wincing as he describes a bad habit or thought process as though he's been watching them climb for years, and subsequently full of relief when he reveals practical steps that will help. Don't expect miracle cures, but do expect to realise the effect of identifying your mistakes and working hard at them is likely to be the same.
I think this is one of the most important climbing books out there: if, like me, you've spent your climbing career psyched but confused by the vast amount of information about climbing improvement this book puts into plain words where you're going wrong and how to put it right. There's nothing too complicated to understand, and nothing too obscure to mentally write off as personally irrelevant.
I will say that if you're a regular devotee of Dave's blog and have attended one of Dave's training lectures, a good chunk of the basic ideas will be familiar, but having it compiled and organised is still incredibly useful.
22 of 23 people found the following review helpful
By B. OSullivan
Format:Paperback
What a great read. I read 60 pages the evening the book arrived - that's pretty exceptional for book of this nature.
The fear of failure, is spot on. As a relative beginner its great to read, "So what if you fall off V1 boulder routes at the climbing wall, when you think everybody else is climbing V7's - nobody cares except you. You will improve, just get stuck in - try things and learn."
For a change I spent an entire session today climbing the boulder slab: Previously eschewed for not looking 'tough enough' to the 'audience'. I can feel my sense of balance and quality of foot hold selection has improved already. It was particularly fascinating to deliberately try different foot positions on different holds, and experiment with those that 'roll' when launching a dyno. It was also great to deliberately use the foot to 'pull' the body into the wall, and use a stiff torso to transmit this force to the hands which in turn lessens the effort required on the hands to pull into the wall.
This book really opened the door to applying a 'scientific method' of 'idea, try, feedback, modify, try again'.
The fear of failure, is spot on. As a relative beginner its great to read, "So what if you fall off V1 boulder routes at the climbing wall, when you think everybody else is climbing V7's - nobody cares except you. You will improve, just get stuck in - try things and learn."
For a change I spent an entire session today climbing the boulder slab: Previously eschewed for not looking 'tough enough' to the 'audience'. I can feel my sense of balance and quality of foot hold selection has improved already. It was particularly fascinating to deliberately try different foot positions on different holds, and experiment with those that 'roll' when launching a dyno. It was also great to deliberately use the foot to 'pull' the body into the wall, and use a stiff torso to transmit this force to the hands which in turn lessens the effort required on the hands to pull into the wall.
This book really opened the door to applying a 'scientific method' of 'idea, try, feedback, modify, try again'.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
Eric J Horst said it best in CONDITIONING FOR CLIMBERS (Falcon Guide)The only complete instruction would be working with you on a one to one basis as a coach.
Dave Macleod has produced 164 pages of good advice. It is not a polished volume, there are mistakes but then Dave is not retired and sat at home in his study!(Nor is he into paying editors it would seem!) But to give it one or even two stars on these grounds would be 'Throwing the baby out with the bathwater' (As one of my Psychology lecturers used to say) This is a very useful opportunity to analyse yourself with the assistance of some probing questions and telling suggestions from one of the best 21st Century climbers in the UK.
Think of it as a lecture perhaps, get your pencil out and as one of the other reviewers suggested some post-it notes and use this as an opportunity to give your climbing an MoT. I'm finding it both reassuring and encouraging at the same time - my best coaches (not in climbing) have always led me to the answer and not just presented it to me, this is what Dave tries to achieve here. Do not expect a Rannulph Fiennes epic or an Eric Langmuir handbook, instead think of it as some 'good advice'. It is not all 'Sport Psychology' based - he does discuss training sessions and 'Training Rhythm' but it is very heavily bedded in psychology.
I thought it a bit expensive at the price but then what's the going rate for a seat in a lecture?
Dave Macleod has produced 164 pages of good advice. It is not a polished volume, there are mistakes but then Dave is not retired and sat at home in his study!(Nor is he into paying editors it would seem!) But to give it one or even two stars on these grounds would be 'Throwing the baby out with the bathwater' (As one of my Psychology lecturers used to say) This is a very useful opportunity to analyse yourself with the assistance of some probing questions and telling suggestions from one of the best 21st Century climbers in the UK.
Think of it as a lecture perhaps, get your pencil out and as one of the other reviewers suggested some post-it notes and use this as an opportunity to give your climbing an MoT. I'm finding it both reassuring and encouraging at the same time - my best coaches (not in climbing) have always led me to the answer and not just presented it to me, this is what Dave tries to achieve here. Do not expect a Rannulph Fiennes epic or an Eric Langmuir handbook, instead think of it as some 'good advice'. It is not all 'Sport Psychology' based - he does discuss training sessions and 'Training Rhythm' but it is very heavily bedded in psychology.
I thought it a bit expensive at the price but then what's the going rate for a seat in a lecture?
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
The majority of this book shares insights into our mental approach to climbing, our climbing habits and our misconceptions about how to improve. The book takes a somewhat general approach; pointing out things that may be holding us back from improving and suggesting habits we need to change, rather than offering a 'guaranteed' training formula to follow. I think that this approach works well and feels very much like an experienced friend motivating you and giving you advice, rather than an overweight coach telling you how many pull-ups to do.
Overall, the book contains sound, valuable advice for climbers at all levels from a general perspective. I would have awarded five stars for the content, but the book needs a better editor and layout designer to gain the full five stars as it is.
Overall, the book contains sound, valuable advice for climbers at all levels from a general perspective. I would have awarded five stars for the content, but the book needs a better editor and layout designer to gain the full five stars as it is.
7 of 8 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
The book gives some excellent advice which really makes you re-evaluate your approach to climbing and training. This has worked for me, helping me to concentrate on the right areas.
My only complaint is that some sections seem to waffle a little. I didn't mind this too much though, because as a climbing geek I'm happy to read anything related to climbing.
Overall a good read.
My only complaint is that some sections seem to waffle a little. I didn't mind this too much though, because as a climbing geek I'm happy to read anything related to climbing.
Overall a good read.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars
Written for me
Dave MacLeod could have been writing for me. The first sections describe almost perfectly my present experience in climbing and the psychological and emotional framework... Read more
Published 5 days ago by Dogbury
5.0 out of 5 stars
another of the nine!
As a relatively new climber (Aug 12) I picked up this book to read on a long train journey after buying it for my boyfriend (he hasn't read it yet) Its really struck a cord with me... Read more
Published 3 months ago by Miss.Crafty
4.0 out of 5 stars
Practical advice
I'm one of those people who tends to read a lot of internet forums, buys several books and asks for a lot of feedback and advice from friends when I want to get better at... Read more
Published 14 months ago by fkoepping77
4.0 out of 5 stars
A good read
This book is written in a stroy like style and reading it in that fashion makes it a great read about training. Read more
Published 15 months ago by duzinga
5.0 out of 5 stars
Invaluable
I admit I was a little disappointed when my copy of Nine out of Ten Climbers... first arrived. Fifteen pounds seems like a lot of money for a slim volume without any of the colour... Read more
Published 16 months ago by B. Croft
2.0 out of 5 stars
There is better out there.
The big problem with this book is its very poor structure. The contents have about 1 million references so it is impossible to use it as a reference book, its a story book only. Read more
Published 17 months ago by Hermit
5.0 out of 5 stars
Superb book
Although it's not aimed at beginners, I'm one (pretty much) and I found this book very useful. The main target readership is those who've been climbing for a good while, and made... Read more
Published 17 months ago by Bookworm1973
5.0 out of 5 stars
9 out 0f 10 climbers
A great book with easy to understand advice. A lot of Dave's comments made me stop and think "of course, that's so simple! Why didn't i think of that?! Read more
Published 22 months ago by guiri james
5.0 out of 5 stars
Enjoyed
Really helpful book which I enjoyed reading. I think there is a lot of good advice in it for really pushing your grade and climbing at a higher level or at least understanding why... Read more
Published on 16 Jun 2011 by zoek5m
1.0 out of 5 stars
A draft ?
This book is not "edited" as it should. There is no clear organization within it.
It's really amateur stuff.
If only I'd learned something useful ! Read more
It's really amateur stuff.
If only I'd learned something useful ! Read more
Published on 10 Jan 2011 by Olivier Cotasson
Listmania!
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