This first part is a preliminary review, intended to convey my initial impressions of the camera.
1) BUILD QUALITY
The camera is assembled in Thailand. Its exterior bodywork looks to be made either from polycarbonate, or from some form of GRP (a durable kind of plastic, re-inforced with glass-fibre threads); the inner chassis is made of steel. The camera doesn't seem to bend or creak - even with a heavy lens attached - and the various switchgear all works positively enough. You will need to take a little extra care when operating the pop-up flash, or when opening and closing the covers to the battery compartment and accessory ports (in other words, with all the usual suspects); but in this respect, the D3200 is no better or worse than many of its rivals. Amateurs/enthusiasts need have no worries about the overall build quality, I believe. As for some of the ancillary bits and pieces...read my later update!
2) THE VIEWFINDER
The D3200 is small - smaller than you might expect. Understandably, then, its mirror, its pentamirror (a cheaper and simpler contraption than the normal pentaprism), and its viewfinder eyepiece, are altogether a little bit more compact than might be desired. On the other hand, it does benefit from some degree of built-in dioptric correction: a welcome bonus! As a visual aid to composition, the viewfinder image is perfectly acceptable with the F2.8 lens that I use (more later); but I suspect that - on dull days, with a slower lens - the image directed to the eye might well become a little too dark for some. Of more immediate concern to me is the viewfinder's information display, which always seems poorly illuminated and just becomes increasingly harder to read in bright conditions.
3) THE LCD MONITOR SCREEN
With its 921K dot display, the D3200's rear screen provides clear and detailed images most of the time - except in spells of the brightest sunshine, as you might expect. It doesn't articulate, which is a disadvantage when it comes to tackling those awkward high and low level shots, or for those wanting to use the D3200 as a video camera; but I suppose it would only have bumped up the purchase price. You need to realise, however, that the rear screen being used here is bonded directly to the camera (as it is with the D600 and D800.) Should you accidentally damage or somehow permanently disable the screen, the only available remedy is for Nikon to replace the entire camera backplate - and that sounds expensive to me! It would therefore be a sensible precaution to fit a sturdy screen protector at the earliest opportunity!
4) THE ABSENCE OF CERTAIN 'ESSENTIAL' CONTROLS/FUNCTIONS
Well, some things are missing from the camera's general specification, that's true - for example, auto-bracketing. I'm getting on a bit now, and I learned my photography using 35mm film SLRs: I find that I can manage perfectly well without AB (it's easy enough to bracket exposures manually, after all); but I suspect that some will really miss it, and others will consider its omission quite unforgiveable! As a landscape photographer, I find that I really miss having the means of previewing Depth of Field... But remember this: Nikon intends the D3200 to be an entry-level DSLR, pitched to the market at a certain price. Was Nikon wrong to dispense with a few of the 'bells and whistles' in order to deliver a camera, at this price, with the performance promised by that 24MP sensor...?
5) THE SIZE OF THE IMAGE FILES
They will be large. The handbook suggests the following averages:
JPEG (Fine/Large): 11.9MB (up to 509 images on an 8GB SDHC card)
RAW(NEF)*: 20.4MB (up to 259 images on an 8GB SDHC card)
JPEG (Fine/Large) + RAW (NEF)*: 31.9MB (up to 171 combined images on an 8GB SDHC card)
[* Adobe patrons will require at least ACR (RAW) 7.1 to read and process the D3200's NEF files]
Keen photographers are going to need a 16GB or 32GB SDHC card (the camera will also accept SDXC cards up to 64GB); and it will have to be UHS-1 if they intend to shoot RAW at 4FPS!
One final word on file sizes. I use
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4 (Mac/PC) to develop and convert copies of the proprietary RAW (NEF) files into 16-bit TIFF files - primarily, to maximize print quality. If you propose to do the same, you need to be aware that the resulting files will be very much larger than their originators - in fact, about 140MB EACH!!
6) THE 'STANDARD' LENS
Every major media review or report you care to read will say the same thing: the Nikkor 18-55mm F3.5 - F5.6G VR is a good performer as far as kit zooms go, but it's not good enough to bring the best out of the D3200's sensor. This statement isn't intended to deprecate those who may already own this lens, and nor should it be taken for an arbitrary piece of 'lens snobbery'; it's merely an objective reiteration of general opinion, that's all.
If you're only looking to buy a fairly uncomplicated camera, complete with its standard zoom lens - and you never want to take your photography any further than that - then I would suggest you'd probably be better served by a Canon 1100D or a Nikon D3100: the performance capabilities of their sensors are likely to be more in tune with the characteristics of these types of general-purpose lenses. Furthermore, I'm not one of those people who subscribes to the idea that you buy a basic kit lens to 'learn the ropes', then discard it and move on to something better: if you understand - from the outset - that a particular lens is ultimately not going to deliver the goods, then why buy it in the first place...? Let me put it this way: owning a D3200 is analogous to having a Ford Fiesta with a V8 engine under its bonnet. Restricting yourself, solely, to the use of that kit zoom lens would be like denying yourself half of the available cylinders and horse-power!
Personally, I needed a good quality zoom lens for my own particular brand of landscape/opportunistic photography, and it eventually came down to a choice between the
Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Lens and the
Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 EX DC HSM Optical Stabilised lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras with APS-C Sensors. The Nikkor lens probably has a slight edge optically and also has a longer zoom range; but I just felt that a maximum aperture of F5.6 - at the tele end - was just too restrictive for use in the UK, where bright sunny days are somewhat few and far between! So it was the Sigma I went for, and it seems to operate well enough with the D3200. Yes - it's a bit soft wide open at the 17mm end (usefully, Adobe Lightroom 4 includes a specific correction profile for this lens, which makes it easy to compensate for distortion and vignetting); but things improve markedly as you stop the lens down, and having a constant F2.8 maximum aperture throughtout the zoom range is something that soon proves its worth! (Incidentally, I think that the
OP/TECH E-Z Grip Hand Strap - Black is a better option than a conventional neck strap for this combination of camera and lens; and the whole ensemble fits very snugly into a
Kata Camera Holster for DSLR with 16-35 Lens - Black.
These, then, are my provisional observations and conclusions. Alas, the dire state of the weather in my part of the world is currently preventing me from really putting the camera through its paces, but early test shots look very promising indeed: there's probably not the ultimate degree of image quality you would expect to get from a Sony Nex 7, which almost certainly uses the same sensor chip (blame the D3200's more aggressive low-pass filter for that!); but the images still appear sharp with masses of detail, and the colours are pleasantly bright and vibrant. The potential is clearly there, and I look forward to updating my review in due course.
++++ UPDATE 31/10/12 ++++
The story so far...
Paradoxically, the D3200 doesn't appear to deliver the highest standards of out-of-camera images you might expect of an entry-level DSLR - not straightforwardly, anyway - and certainly not in JPEG mode, when left to its own devices; but there again, how many entry-level cameras are there with a 24MP sensor - and the processing requirements that entails...? My results to date suggest that a combination of shooting RAW (NEF) and diligent processing is the only way to go if you really want to extract the maximum performance from this camera - and that means getting yourself some efficient photo-editing software.
I would also make the following observations and suggestions:
1) COLO(U)R SPACE (accessed from the Shooting Menu)
This is something reviewers rarely mention, but it fundamentally dictates the way in which the camera receives and records its sensor's chromatic data - and that has clear implications for the tonality of monochrome conversions, too. The D3200 has two available settings: sRGB, and AdobeRGB. If you don't use proprietary Adobe products, it might seem natural enough for you to keep your camera set to sRGB...but that would be quite wrong! Choose the AdobeRGB setting, instead, and you will expand the range of colours (the 'gamut') that your camera will then be able to respond to and record; and don't be too concerned about compatability as most third party editing/printing systems recognise and support the AdobeRGB standard.
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