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Product Description
Hermann Buhl's momentous ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953 (after Annapurna and Everest, the third 8000m peak to be climbed) set an agenda for adventurous mountaineers that inspires to this day. Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, published after his historic first ascent, fired the imagination of a generation of climbers. The book's closing moments, the account of his prolonged summit climb, still thrills with its single-minded commitment and total loneliness. Since its first UK publication in 1956 this has been considered one of the great inspirational classics - the book that galvanised generations of ambitious alpinists. Buhl's swashbuckling alpine career and his epic solo completion of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat are regarded as seminal events. His adventures on alpine and dolomite climbs were related with such passion and enthusiasm that it proved irresistibly inspiring. Latterly it is thought that Kurt Maix's editing (which Buhl might well have approved) contrived to adapt Buhl's original account into something far more heroic and erudite than would have been natural for a young climber. Sadly Buhl was unable to play a prolonged part in the saga he had instigated. After the Broad Peak climb, while decending from an attempt on Chogolisa, he died in a cornice accident. This book, and the vivid memory of his climbs, is a reminder of a climbing icon whose example resonates through the ages, inspiring climbers to this day.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
21 of 22 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
Dear costumer, Years ago when I first started climbing I bought this biography and was inspired as a result. Buhl was was not only one of the best climbers of his era, but had a style of climbing that shocked the establishment, often climbing at super fast speeds, solo, and even at night. His 1953 Oxygenless ascent of Nanga Parbat a day or so after the British reached the top of Everest with supplemental oxygen was argueably a far greater accomplishment. Yet it was overshadowed by the British accomplishment, possibly because it was not a British news story, who knows? Think how much praise the British accomplishment recieved, great though it undoubted was. Yet some way off in another area of the himalaya Buhl resolutely forced himself to the top of Nanga Parbat, not only without oxygen but also solo for the final sections of the climb. He then endured amasing hardship during his descent, spending a night in the open high in the death zone, without food and with temperatures that were extremely low even for that area of the world. Buy this book and be inspired by this great climber who pushed back so many physical and psychological barriers. There are many stories of his early life, his training routines, and his early breakthroughs. My original book was sadly damaged during a mountainering trip, and many years of searching failed to produce a replacement to keep on my bookshelf. I did see a copy once in a second hand bookshop, the owner knowing it was out of print at the time had put its second hand price at £94.00 As the original cost me only £4.99 I was somewhat shocked and sadly as a mature student this fee was beyond the powers of my finances. I have now placed an order for this new copy via <Amazson.co.uk> and hope all you first time buyers whether active or armchair climbers enjoy the book as much as I did.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
Hermann Buhl was a classic. He stands as a milestone in human mountaineering. His single solo push to the summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 stands out as a classic of human survival and endurance. He was not only a climber, put a family man with great passion and drive. Well worth the read. Inspirational stuff.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
This was quite a departure from the broody, introspective moutaineering literature of the modern era. It is written in a simple and basic style which very much reflects the simple, pragmatic approach of Buhl and the era of mountaineering.
The book follows his development through his early years into an exceptional climber rubbing shoulders (and sharing the rope) with Gaston Rebuffat on the North Face of the Eiger. It also follows his riskier climbing - solo, on long winter routes, often in unpleasant conditions. It beggars belief to picture some of the extreme climbs he undertook with 1950's eqipment, tying directly into the rope and hammering in pitons.
For me the real crux was the description of the Nanga Parbat expedition - the tension, the politics and ultimately the climb itself which he completed solo in some very testing pages of the book which build a real climax.
The book follows his development through his early years into an exceptional climber rubbing shoulders (and sharing the rope) with Gaston Rebuffat on the North Face of the Eiger. It also follows his riskier climbing - solo, on long winter routes, often in unpleasant conditions. It beggars belief to picture some of the extreme climbs he undertook with 1950's eqipment, tying directly into the rope and hammering in pitons.
For me the real crux was the description of the Nanga Parbat expedition - the tension, the politics and ultimately the climb itself which he completed solo in some very testing pages of the book which build a real climax.
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