In 2010, Thailand had nearly 16 million tourist arrivals; Burma had about 300,000. Since Burmese tourist attractions eclipse those of Thailand in every respect except in brothels, since the political and security obstacles to tourism have been removed, and since one may be confident that the inconvenience of having to bring large amounts of cash in pristine $100 bills will soon be a thing of the past, tourism to Burma is set to explode. For the tourist, there is no way to go but down, but for long-suffering Burmese this will be a blessing, and for the publishers of this Lonely Planet guidebook, who now enjoy at least a temporary monopoly in the market for English language guidebooks, it should be a bonanza.
Deservedly so, because this is a very good guidebook. In our recent holiday, it proved very reliable, and its many maps were both accurate and useful. Some of its sightseeing "highlights" are whimsical--presumably no tourist really gets up in Mandalay to watch the 4 am teeth brushing of a particular Buddha-but most of its sightseeing priorities are well chosen. Its treatment of major sites such as the Shwedagon Paya and the Bagan temples is adequate but it might be worthwhile seeking out older guidebooks to see if there are more extensive accounts. Its text boxes are often interesting, and the introductions to Burmese history, culture, politics and the economy etc in the later part of the book are lively and well-written and will be useful for most readers. The discussion of currency exchange is inadequate but in any case the situation seems to have changed since the book was written, though it remains very confusing. Details of opening hours etc appeared to be generally accurate--the authors can scarcely be blamed for not noting an abrupt change of policy last November that closed the National Museum (and probably other museums as well) on Mondays and Tuesdays. No guidebook can ever be wholly up-to-the-minute but this does pretty well.
The Lonely Planet series began with a target audience of Antipodean backpackers but appears now to be trying to appeal to more mainstream tourists. Its hotel lists range from the very basic up to the very expensive, and its restaurant lists are also wide. Readers should be aware however that the "top choices", especially for restaurants, appear aimed at backpackers rather than the mainstream. On our first evening, we went to the Yangon "top choice" and found ourselves sitting on rather uncomfortable stools, eating a series of not very tasty curries in oily sources. The Bagan "top choice" had better food but the nastiest toilet we encountered anywhere.
The reason for giving the book four rather than five stars is less its fairly minor shortcomings than for its outrageous suggestions as to how to evade the $10 ticket that some local archaeological departments charge foreign tourists for visiting all the sites in a particular jurisdiction, on the grounds that these departments are part of the Government. I know nothing about Burmese public finances, but in most countries archaeological departments have awesome responsibilities and operate on a shoestring. British taxpayers would be rightly infuriated if a US guidebook instructed American tourists on how to get into, say, the Tower of London without paying.