For all that Steingarten plays up his obsessive eccentricity, what he sets out to do is fundamentally & profoundly sane. "It must've been something I ate" refers to his observation that people who wake up in the morning feeling nauseated and weary tend to blame their food. Well, Steingarten wants to wake up in the mornings feeling happy, refreshed, full of appetite for the day ahead and full of fond remembrance of the day before - and food, for him, is at the centre of things. These essays are about particular foodstuffs but they're universally about the search for sanity, by which he means a passionate effort to make the most of life, to get the most joy possible out of it. What he focuses on is food but other things are clearly as important to him, like learning about the world and writing about it. He's funny, witty and good humoured, and a good lesson on how those three qualities are quite different (and quite wonderful in combination).
An absolute treat, even if you've no interest in food and have never been hungry or thirsty in your life. If you have been, it's even better.