Ruske's Mozart is first-class playing that belongs in any collection.
"Fully centered" refers to Ruske's concept of French horn tone. Tone color, not facility of note production, is what the horn is about.
Ruske's Mozart is played on a Stephen Lewis custom horn based on Karl Geyer's models. This places Ruske not only close to his Chicago, Illinois personal origins but squarely in the center of the modern range of horn tone concepts.
Besides being in the center of tonal concepts, Ruske's playing also reflects his Chicago roots in staying away from the shimmering effects that are more common among soloists in Europe and among at least some of the big-horn players. Without that injection of live spirit into the tone, however, the centrist sound can sound dead or slightly nasal. Ruske often seems tempted to combat this by swelling longer notes once he has hold of them, but this solution of the need to "do something" doesn't work out as well to my ears as a delicate vibrato. In the end, his tone is best when the passage is in motion.
His interpretation of the scores is a young man's, with quick tempos in virtually all the movements, a consistent scooping of long upward slurs, and a judicious bit of hot-dogging here and there -- nicely done at the very end of the third concerto, for example. Don't miss the wonderful cadenza in the Concert Rondo!
Ruske seems indifferent to leaving the occasionally imperfection in the recordings as released, and bravo for that!! Every run-through is different and (almost) none are perfect -- something the public should be aware of. Players of Ruske's stature should perhaps think of releasing two contrasting versions of the Mozart pieces, just to show us some of the options.
To end where I started: first-class playing that belongs in any collection.