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Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes Hardcover – 1 May 1996


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Hardcover, 1 May 1996
£999.11 £8.88
--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

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Product details

  • Hardcover: 240 pages
  • Publisher: Baton Wicks Publications; 2nd Revised edition edition (1 May 1996)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1898573034
  • ISBN-13: 978-1898573036
  • Product Dimensions: 26.2 x 22.8 x 2.6 cm
  • Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (6 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 3,256,457 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Product Description

Review

'This is a superbly handsome book and cannot fail to inspire both the accomplished alpinist and new hand alike.' --(Simon Richardson, Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal).

The nearest thing to pornography I've ever put on proud display in my living room: The Mont Blanc Massif: The hundred finest routes by the revered Gaston Rebuffat.' --(Tom Hutton, Footless Crow). --This text refers to an alternate Hardcover edition.

About the Author

Gaston Rebuffat was born in Marseille, France in 1921 and died of cancer in Paris in 1985. He was one of the greatest French climbers in the mid-20th century. He began to climb aged 14 on his home crags, the soaring limestone cliffs at the Calenques along the Mediterranean shore and Mont Sainte-Victoire. Every summer he migrated north to climb in the Alps above Chamonix. Rebuffat became the first climber to ascend the six great north faces of the Alps. He was also a key member on the 1950 French expedition that climbed Annapurna, the first 8,000-metre peak ever climbed. Over his 50-year climbing career, he made over a thousand first ascents, including many in the Mont Blanc massif. Besides being a prolific climber, Gaston Rebuffat became a foremost mountaineering writer, despite having a very minimal formal education He wrote 20 books, wrote a regular climbing column for Le Monde newspaper, started his own publishing house in Geneva, and wrote and narrated several award-winning films. --This text refers to an alternate Hardcover edition.

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful By S. Smith on 12 Dec. 2009
Format: Hardcover
Some will argue over whether this book contains the 100 finest routes, arguing fairly that many newer classics have been put up since. Fair enough. But I think that is missing the point. This is a guidebook, topo, coffee table book, history book and work of literature all rolled into one. It is dated in many ways, but the descriptions for most of the routes are still valid.

If it's a guidebook you need, go for Griffin's Alpine Club publications Vols 1+2, and/or (the more recent) Damilano's Vol 1+2, plus Piola's topos for the rock climber. But Rebuffat's 100 finest routes compliments these perfectly. It's a cracking read, and really brings across a passion for the mountains and the routes. As a historical document it's fascinating to see what was done in the years before gore-tex, technical axes, bolting and friends -- it perfectly bridges the gap between the golden age of alpinism, with all it's romance and adventure, and the modern, rather dry guidebooks.

Chances are that anyone heading to the massif will be repeating some of these routes, and this book really adds some flavour and context to trip planning. Several of the routes also have better descriptions than the modern guides -- the Gervasutti couloir on the Tacul is one example. Rebuffat is a legendary figure in Chamonix, and rightly so. This book -- as well as several classic routes he put up across the massif -- is his legacy, and in my opinion essential to any alpinist.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful By Henry Crosby on 24 Mar. 2012
Format: Hardcover Verified Purchase
This book is a must have on the coffee table of any aspiring mountaineer. Totally impractical to actually take into the mountains it is perfect for planning and scheming Alpine trips in the premier Alpine venue.
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12 of 16 people found the following review helpful By A Customer on 25 Nov. 1999
Format: Hardcover
The only volume in this series of French coffee table guides to mountaineering and ski touring to have been translated into English and long out of print in both English & French. First published in the 1970s and not updated it is debatable if this is still the best 100 routes as many modern classics are omitted. Nevertheless nice, if sometimes a little posed, photography and a classic.
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