This is a brilliant brilliant book and not like any other travel book I've read - especially ones about the middle east. First it is hugely funny and often in unexpected places - it's rare to read a serious book like this and laugh out loud. Second, and perhaps more importantly, the author does not stand back and write about the characters and places he meets in a cold detached way. Rather he acknowledges his place in it all -his idealism, his assumptions, his changing attitude - which makes the journey feel fleshy and real throughout. It's also the fastest I've ever read a book as it is genuinely nailbiting - the wizard-of-oz-like quest to get to Baghdad gives the book a constant forward moving thrust and is difficult to put down. But what stayed with me the most after reading the book were those small moments he paints so well - perhaps because of his work as a painter - the vivid detail of each scene, the smell, the colours - descriptions that have stayed with me long after I finished reading it. An exceptional book.