The crowned Queen of Italian cookery, for many years La Bella Marcella ruled with unaffected dignity from her unpretentious Venetian palazzo, where she held court and conducted audiences, or Master Classes in the culinary arts, for privileged groups of paying guests. Married to Victor, she moved with her husband's job to New York, where Marcella started giving cookery lessons in their appartment and published The Classic Italian Cookbook in 1973. The Second Italian Cookbook followed, then Marcella's Kitchen, as did cookery schools in Italy; first Bologna and, lately, Venice. In 1992, Marcella firmly established her regal status with the publication of her magnum opus: The Essentials Of Classic Italian Cooking.
Marcella Cucina is her ultimate statement. Her received a record breaking advance for it and, since it's first publication two years ago, she's left Venice and retired to Florida. Now published in paperback, this precious book makes perfect poolside reading for people who read recipe books like novels. Those who don't should at least study the introduction, as Marcella's essays on marketing, with reference to her local market on the Rialto, and the Elements Of Taste provide the perfect primer for visitors to Italy.
But it is warmth with which her recipes are rendered, informed by the condensed experience of more than forty years of marriage, that make this book special. Marcella's marriage to Victor - who is pictured in the opening pages lugging a shopping trolley laden with green stuff - has been a constant source of inspiration: "I still cook to please my husband. When I am developing recipes for a book I do not follow what I understand to be the common practice of working on a chicken chapter, or a fish chapter, or any chapter whatever. I cook a meal that my husband and I eat." So, you see, it's a love story.