Magic Prague is a difficult book - I've read it three times now and the process went like this: 1. I first read it before I'd ever visited Prague, and found it tedious and generally hard work. 2.
I then read it after about two months in Prague, and it made more sense - its obscurities and the dense style still made it difficult, though. 3. Finally, after a year of living in Prague, I read it again, and the whole thing makes sense. Czech history, and Czech modernism in particular, are very rich subjects. Ripellino isn't attempting an objective, academic analysis - it's clearly a response to August 1968, a quasi-mystical critique of the supposedly rational, scientific
communist ideology then in power (and seemingly eternal too.)
Peter Demetz, author of Prague in Black and Gold, is very critical of Ripellono's subjective approach.
It's an erudite book, of course, but knowing The Trial just isn't enough to enjoy it - Czech literary history (Neruda,
Hasek, Kafka) is important, but much more detailed knowledge
is required - it helps to know the writings of Holan, Teige,
Seifert, Orten, Vancura and others - and to be au fait with
Poetism and Czech surrealism, Werich and Voskovec, the topography and unhappy history of Bohemia from the Battle of White Mountain in 1621. Since then, I've found it an incredibly rich and evocative source of information - you just need to supplement this with diverse reading, looking at Czech art,
getting lost in Prague, and... learning Czech.
Czech modernism, in particular, is as rich and complex as e.g.
German modernism in the 1920s (in a different way, of course.)
As far as I know, there is no guide to this in English, though
Ripellino's book is a good pioneering start. The reason for this, I think, is that the Czech language is quite difficult (seven different inflections depending on the context) - Magic Prague isn't recommended if you're visiting for a couple of weeks over the summer.
Finally, it's best to read the book a little at a time.