This is a beautiful book, elegantly written but also with passion and erudition. I chose it because I was feeling a loss. I have lived outside the UK for many years now, and every time the topic of cooking has come up English cooking has been the subject of ridicule. And yet I remembered eating quite well when I was young. I felt there had to be good food in Britain, and I set out to look for it. Originally, I had been searching for a book of English recipes, but Mr. Yeatman reminds us forcefully that good food is as much a question of how the original source is reared and prepared as of how it is cooked. Every chapter gives some recipes but their real focus is the various English breeds, strains and cultivars still existing and the preparation they require before they even enter the kitchen.
I also found the book tremendously attractive because it is a paean of praise to all those unknown, humble folk who have maintained the art of English food preparation and cooking, through thick and mostly thin. Mr. Yeatman has delved into the remotest corners of England to track down preparers of traditional foods. Inevitably, the book is also an act of mourning for all that has been lost over the years, and continues to be lost as the older generation with the knowledge progressively dies out. But the book is not all pessimism. Mr. Yeatman's witty style does not allow us to keep black thoughts for long, and he does give us reasons to hope that English food can be brought back from the brink. The book comes with some lovely photos taken by his wife of livestock and people showing off their wares. The number of old people in the latter category makes one fear the worst, the presence of some young 'uns gives us reason to hope.
Mr. Yeatman discusses the reasons for the parlous state of English food, and his main culprits are rapacious supermarkets offering quality-less food, ridiculously bureaucratic government authorities asphyxiating the small producers in red tape, and possibly Brussels and the other side of the Channel generally, symbolized by the metric system. It is here that I find a weakness in the book. The reasons for the downward spiral in English food are surely more complex, and ranting on about supermarkets and their "running dogs" will not fix the problem. They are probably more a symptom of the disease than the cause, which I would see as excessive urbanization and its natural extension, globalization, as well as - dare I say it? - a general indifference in people the world over to really good food; as long as it's warm, fills you up, and doesn't give you stomach cramps, it's OK.
The list of food that Mr. Yeatman covers is to my untrained eye very comprehensive, but I was surprised to see that he does not mention beer-making. To the objection that beer is not food, I would point out that the book goes over the making of cider and perry so why not beer? It seems the most English of English beverages. Finally, I hope that before the next edition of the book (one of many, I'm sure), someone carefully reads through the text and gets rid of the quite frequent typographical errors.
All in all, a great read and I thoroughly recommend the book to anyone - English or otherwise - who has an interest in food.