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4.3 out of 5 stars143
4.3 out of 5 stars
Price:£31.99+ Free shipping with Amazon Prime
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on 5 October 2014
So I have only had this item for a day as I have a kitchen knife that was completely ruined by someone who "attempted" to sharpen it. Watching a few youtube videos, I begun to understand how the system works, and what you should be doing to get that perfect edge. Key points to note. The rods go into the underside of the sharpening stone, and not on top (like I initially did). This caused about half an hour of delay and realising I wasn't actually going very far as the angle was too acute. Swapped it around to the correct way, and levelled the bar with the flat edge of the sharpening stone (put the bar in the stone slot, and place the stone face down on a flat surface. Then tighten the thumbscrew and check alignment. Depending on the quality of the blade, choose your grit. The lower the number, the more coarse the stone is (you can feel the difference by rubbing your finger over each stone). Kitchen knives will generally want to be sharpened to 20 degrees, however check with the knife manufacturer on what degree your knife was initially made to.

Work the blade until you can feel a bur on the underside of the entirety blade. Flip it over, and do the same again. Once the bur is on the underside of the blade, go down coarseness. I personally used black for about half an hour (trust me, my knife was completely and utterly ruined), then move on to red / grey / blue / and finally finish off with yellow. Between each stone, make sure you get a bur on the underside of the knife, flip it, bur the opposite side, swap out for finer stone.

It's a pretty simple process, and once you are done, you'll have a perfectly sharp blade once again.

Pros: Packaging is nice, and should last for years. Does what it's meant to, and sharpen your blades to a nice finish.

Cons: Ok, so I'm being slightly over-critical here. This set isn't complete. You pretty much HAVE to have a Lansky pedestal to go along with this. I tried to sharpen without the pedestal just to see the difference and it was extremely difficult to say the least. Nevermind the increased risk of cutting yourself. Also, for a perfect finish, you need the leather stropping hone (also an additional purchase). Lack of instructions included with the system was a bit of a downer. EDIT: Also, the rubber pads that come on the clamp have slightly dislodged with only about 1 hour of use. I'm pretty gutted about this, but I will buy some epoxy and stick those suckers back in place once they no longer hold their place. I would have expected a very high grade glue used, but alas it wasn't that great. I managed to realign them just by pushing on the side and they moved back in place. Hey Lansky, if you're listening, improve the glue on the rubber grips!

Conclusion: Works really well, and brought my notched blunt kitchen knife back into working service. I still have quite a bit of work left to work out my notches, but eventually it'll be brilliant. I rated this 4/5 because the leather strop was an additional purchase. In my opinion, and feel free to disagree with me here, is that a "Deluxe" sharpening system should have a leather strop included to do a professional finish. But that's just my 2c! If you're new to this system, buy this kit with a pedestal, and if you really want to do a great finish, get the leather strop too.
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on 12 June 2015
I have had the Lansky Deluxe system for a couple of weeks now and sharpened several blades. Actually at first I thought it was not very good at all, and I still think it has issues but I can say that it is capable of sharpening some blades to a very good edge and actually can do so quite quickly on a knife that has not completely lost its edge - apart from assembling the stones and rods.

However the big issue I have with the system is the clamp. On small blades e.g. my Victorinox Swiss Army Knife you have to clamp right at the back otherwise sharpening at the preferred 20 degree angle you just end up grinding the clamp tip instead of the knife edge. Even when set up optimally it is a close thing.

I have no idea how anyone can sharpen say a X-Acto blade at 17 degrees - the blade would appear to be too narrow and the angle too acute for the stone to hit the blade at all. If anyone knows how to use this system for such a blade please can you add a comment? Note this is the latest rubber padded version, not any older version.

Apparently the ideal protrusion for a blade is about half an inch - and this is presumably where the stone angle will be correct if using a correctly assembled stone with straight guide rods - which it is well worth taking some time to assemble these properly.

I found that longer blades and also ones where the tip curls away a lot are best re-positioned in the clamp once or twice and sharpened in sections otherwise the angle gets 'sub-optimal' as the stone is moved out towards either end of the blade.

Re-edging a really dull blade takes some work - where the course stones are needed due to completely lost edge - expect to apply more force and to grind for quite a while in some cases before the new edge bevel is established. Moving on to a finer stone too early is a waste of time because if you have not established an edge, no amount of find grind and polishing will sharpen it. That was one of my noobie errors...

Oops - back to my biggest gripe, the clamp. It has changed design recently and now has rubber pads stuck in it. This works great for a broad bladed knife - and I now have some kitchen knives which can slice through food better than I have ever had before.

However for a thin blade where you clamp near the back edge, while it may seems to hold the blade OK at first, when you start applying any force the blade deflects downwards in the clamp due to the flexibility of the rubber and the narrow amount of blade in the clamp - so as you press down to sharpen so you do not get a consistent grind angle - which after all is the whole point of such a tool. If I wanted a variable grind angle I could go back to hand sharpening on a whetstone.

So I would say this tool is not really ideally suited to sharpen for example a blunt Swiss Army Knife. Not to say you can not do it - and dressing up the edge of a slightly dulled one using lower force with the fine stones is viable, but to re-establish an accurate 20 degree bevel on a blunt blade is really not easy at all due to this rubber clamp insert flex problem - lighter force has to be used than would be ideal for the initial course grind.

You can probably improve this slightly by using a Lansky Stand to hold the clamp and holding the knife handle in your now freed up second hand to support it, but this is awkward unless you are very ambidextrous and probably does not entirely eliminate the problem.

So I have mixed feelings about this system. It is quite expensive but does not sharpen small blades as easily as it should in my view.

A note regarding stone assembly - the plastic case clips are too tight so it is easy to bend the rods while getting them out the case. Not a big deal but a slight annoyance.

The instructions which came with the knife were OK - but the video on the Lansky web site is confusing because it shows an earlier version without rubber inserts. Also some yet older versions had a notch at the front to hold small blades, maybe that worked better than the current version.

By the way I did take heed of the advice to keep the gap at the back of the clamp wide than at the front screw - this helps by making the clamp closer to the tapering angle of a typical blade's profile - but when you are only able to clamp a few mm in a rubber lined jaw it will never be very rigid.

The Lansky's instruction tip of push to grind and lift back seems to work best, seems less natural initially than a to-and-fro movement somehow but seems to grind better somehow, perhaps it cleans the stone of debris better than dragging it back over the stone face during the pull stroke.

I would welcome any comments on the above. I know that sharpening with this system is a skill to be learned, not instant gratification - and I know I am still learning.

Overall I would give this system 4 stars for sharpening kitchen knives and larger blades (deducting one star for having to straighten out rods bent slightly while removing from box) and 2 stars for sharpening small blades so average = 3.
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on 24 May 2011
I bought this system as I felt I had gone as far as I could with the Spyderco one. If used intelligently, this system produces a first class edge. However, don't think that using the system as suggested in the leaflet and online will produce consistently good results. You would do well to look at the article by John Juranitch which you can find by searching for his name or 'rasoredge'; this shows the importance of establishing a secondary bevel first of all, and for this you will need the extra coarse hone. Also, it pays dividends - and yes, I am rather obsessive - to use a jeweller's loupe (get one from an optician for a few pounds) to check when you have got a good secondary bevel. Once this is established, it shouldn't take more than two minutes at most to resharpen the blade.
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on 27 October 2015
I don't understand why people are saying this is hard to use or that the instructions are sketchy.

Provided you actually read the instructions and follow them instead of doing what you think you should do then wonderig what you did wrong you should be fine.

I took a high quality knife from the kitchen that was reasonably dull due to poor initial care and inaccurate sharpening started from scratch. Even from the coarse stone there was a noticeable improvement. As time went on and I worked down through the coarsness the blade became incredibly sharp.

The secret seems to be in being able to maintain exactly the same angle with all stones right across the stroke. It's all too easy when honing freehand to waggle the blade and get an inconsistent bevel.

This is not a quick swipe and wipe sharpening solution. It takes investing about an hour in a dulled blade to get it truly honed in this way. But if you want your kitchen knives back to the way they should be before even going near them with a steel in the kitchen it's worth it. I ruined a really good knife by using a supermarket special sharpener simply because all it did was curve the existing bevel. It's now back to what it should be.

Needless to say, with a previously honed blade you can maintain it with the finer stones every once in a while knowing that you'll be on the right bevel angle.

If anything breaks on this I'll edit the review, but for nowI wanted to let people know that a complete newcomer to the device can get good results right out of the box if they read the instructions first and rake the advice on bevel angle for the use intended from the blade.
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on 10 January 2011
I first came across the Lansky Knife Sharpening system in the mid 60's when preparing for a mid-term school camping trip. In those days you could carry and wear a sheath knife. A fellow pupil produced this blue box and began assembling all these weird looking carbon stones held in holders, connecting them to pieces of wire. One by one, he took our knives and worked his magic, giving them each an edge none could remember ever having. We held paper between thumb and forefinger, slowly sliced though it to a chorus of "oooh's" and "wow's" for the rest of the afternoon.

I never forgot that kit but could neither remember who made it or where to find someone who sold anything like it - until I took a trip to the States in the early 90's and saw it advertised. I sent off my money and a few days later received the exact same blue box. My hands were shaking with enthusiastic anticipation of bringing back that edge to all sorts of knives.

I still have that blue box kit and it comes out every month to keep my chef's knives in perfect condition and I certain would recommend it to anyone who realises the value (and safety) of having a set of razor sharp knives.

Don't attempt to sharpen a Japanese Katana sword or any other long or tempered steel blade. These require a highly specialised technique. This knife sharpening system is for the shorter bladed knife (up to about 8 inches). For longer ones you will have to perform the sharpening process in two parts: one section, and then move the blade up in the Multi-Angle clamp to perform the second section. Keep a log: a note of the stone colours and slot used for each knife so that when you come to re-sharpen them, you will know the angle of the hone for that particular knife. The green and blue stones at 25 degree is all I use on my kitchen knives now to maintain their durable edges.

As someone else has said, it is strongly recommended to have the Super C-Clamp which doesn't seem to be available here but it is still sold in the States by Lanskys as the "Convertible Super "C" Clamp". This clamp allows you to secure the whole assembly to a tabletop and makes it feel a great deal safer to use. Consider it a must. It's not worth winging it and thinking you could make something or use a vice to hold the Multi-Angle knife Clamp (that comes in the main System box). Personally I believe Lansky should include this in the main kit. The box that my Super C-Clamp came in had a flimsy plastic formed tray type insert. That tray is still intact but with cracks and very fragile. I would have preferred something a bit more substantial to keep all the bits together; something like the main system blue box. Ah well...

To conclude - A brilliant concept! You'll end up treasuring this bit of kit and it'll probably get handed on down through your family for generations to come.
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on 8 December 2015
The sharpening stones themselves are okay but after the first time using them, the rubber piece's at the end of the clamp that holds the knife both moved and became dislodged leaving the clamp practically useless. I have watched Youtube videos on how to use the stones correctly before using them and the clamps that they use are far superior than the one I received, in fact the clamp I received had me questioning if in fact this was a cheap Chinese copy and not an original Lansky part!!!
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TOP 1000 REVIEWERVINE VOICEon 20 December 2011
On opening the box you could be forgiven for wondering what fiendishly complex sharpening kit you've just bought for yourself. Don't worry - the Lansky kit is actually extremely simple to use.

With a tradntional whetstone, the stone remains stationary while you move the knife (usually freehand) across the stone's surface to achieve an edge. The quality of the edge depends very much on the angle you sharpen the blade at, the amount of pressure applied and the coarseness of the stone. With all these variables it takes a LOT of practice to do a "proper job".

The Lansky kit makes it simple to achieve wonderfully sharp, consistent edges by turning the principle on it's head. Rather than keep the whetstone still, you clamp the knife in place and, using a guide rod and a series of spaced holes in the clamp move the whetstone along the blade. By placing the guide holes in the clamp and fixing the blade, you are ensured of getting a near perfectly consistent sharpening angle across the length of the blade. The Deluxe kit comes with 5 whetstones of varying coarseness, ranging from 70 to 1000. The grade 70 stone should be used sparingly to take out any major nicks in a blade while the 1000 grade stone will hone the finest of edges. Complete with a 30ml bottle of "Nathan's Natural Honing Oil" to lubricate the stones, this kit should last a good while. I've found that one drop of oil is plenty for the fine stone, while a couple of drops works better for the coarse stone.

In use, the clamp itself can be a bit fiddly to hold, so I'd recommend purchasing it with the "Super C" clamp which will allow you to mount the whole setup firmly to a table and leave both hands free for sharpening duties. It also means that you can keep your fingers out of the way which is a good thing as a freshly Lansky sharpened knife has an amazingly sharp edge on it. I've foud that sharpening a knife will range from between 2 and 5 minutes depending on how dull/damaged the blade is to start with - if you keep maintaining the edge with your lansky kit then I expect the time will lessen as maintenance is easier than repair.

Sharp knives are always safer than dull ones and this has to be the best knife sharpening system that I've ever used. Kinder to the knives than your typical "supermarket gadget" sharpener; achieves a finer edge than a sharpening steel; easier and more consistent than a regular whetstone. Highly recommended.
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on 26 August 2015
The main problem with this device is that the clamp does not grip the knife properly. It is even worse with something like a thin carving knife because the knife has to extend about half an inch beyond the clamp, otherwise the sharpening stone fouls the clamp at 20 degrees which is the right setting for kitchen knives. This means that there is nothing left to grip. Sharpening a knife longer than 7 inches is difficult; you have to do it in two halves.
You have to buy the universal mount; otherwise it is impossible to hold the frame with one hand and use the stones with the other. Even with the mount, it is a real trial. I ended up clamping the unit in a vice which makes it much more of a hassle turning the knife over.
The box is flimsy. Once I took the extension rods out, the plastic grippers would not hold them any more.
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on 12 September 2010
Great system for sharpening knives. The clamp needs major screw tightening however to keep the knives fixed steadily and also the clamp is a bit high as it interferes with the honing stones if placed too near the blade edge. I'd still give it 5 stars as it is the best model I've used to date.
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on 16 December 2014
Always tried to keep knives sharp but have always been inconsistent. This kit sorts that and I am delighted.
My kit came in a black case and the holder without a 'step' on the end, I thought it may be a knock off but after use and research I think it's the latest model. Large blades (kitchen or >4 inches) are easy to hold in the clamp but I found small blades harder. Swiss army knife 'big' blade was OK but resorted to using the stones without the clamp in the smallest blade as just couldn't get a firm grip. At the end of the clamp was a rubber pad which I assume is supposed to grip the blade but it quickly became unstuck so is now in the bin, grip is better without it.
If you have very narrow blades it may be tricky but for the vast majority this kit will work well. Don't press too hard, when re-profiling the blade, just take your time.
I bought the plastic base and cannot imagine using the kit without some kind of support however, I wish I'd bought the metal one as it fits in the box. Also bought the leather hone and it makes a significant difference to final sharpness. I currently have bald patches on both arms and one leg where I have tested each knife for sharpness. You tube if you need help but instructions are good if you bother to read them (especially about how to clamp different blade sizes).
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