If you're new to Cyprus, or to the travel writings of Colin Thubron: this is the place to start. Walking, notebook in his rucksack (no film crew, no cameras or microphones) for 600 miles through Cyprus, north/south, east/west, Thubron provides a highly readable yet well-researched introduction to the country, its variegated human history from paleolithic to modern times. But most of all, in the style that became the trademark of his later travel books, he gives us the people. Orthodox monks, taciturn peasant farmers and their voluble wives, schoolmasters (including the unforgettable Chambi, proud of his Arcadian ancestry), brides and wedding fiddlers, Greek soliders, Turkish soldiers - they emerge not as picturesque stereotypes but as real people, living out their lives in an often-harsh landscape.
The trip was undertaken in 1972 - in retrospect, a halcyon time, after the bitter EOKA war of the mid-1950s and a mere two years before the attempted assassination of Makarios and the Turkish invasion that was to leave Cyprus a divided country. Thubron wandered all over the island, moving from Greek villages to Turkish villages, remarking on the Turkish quarters in some predominantly Greek towns. Now all this has changed, as has the underlying tone of basic acceptance between the two ethnic communities. We can read Thubron's book as an account of a Cyprus that no longer exists - but, even more importantly, it supplies the broader perspective needed to understand this much-invaded, much-suffering island state.