LIST OF CONTENTS
Introduction
PART ONE BASICS
Gettting there from Britain
Getting there from Ireland
Getting there from the USA and Canada
Getting there from Australia and New Zealand
Red tape and visas
Insurance
Costs, money and banks
Travellers with disabilities
Health
Information and maps
Getting around
Accommodation
Food and drink
Communications: post, phones and the media
Opening hours and public holidays
Festivals
Sports and outdoor pursuits
Trouble and the police
Women . . . and sexual harassment
Work and study
Directory
PART TWO THE GUIDE
CHAPTER 1: PIEMONTE & VALLE D’AOSTA
Turin
The Susa & Chisone valleys
Saluzzo & the western valleys
Cuneo & around
Alba & the Le Langhi hills
Asti & around
Eastern Piemonte
Northern Piemonte
The road to Aosta & the eastern valleys
Aosta & around
Gran Paradiso National Park
Arvier & Valgrisenche
The northwest: around Mont Blanc
Travel details
CHAPTER 2: LIGURIA
Genoa
Around Genoa
Ventimiglia & around
San Remo & around
The Golfo Paradiso
Portofino & the Golfo del Tigullio
The Cinque Terre
The Golfo di Poeti
Travel details
CHAPTER 3: LOMBARDY & THE LAKES
Milan
South of Milan: Pavia & Vigevano
Cremona
Mantua & around
Lago Maggiore & Lago d’Orta
The Varesotto
Lago di Como
The Valchiavenna & Valtellina
Bergamo
Around Bergamo
Lago d’Iseo & the Val Camonica
Brescia & around
Val Trompia, Lago d’Idro & Lago di Ledro
Lago di Garda
Travel details
CHAPTER 4: TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Trento
The Dolomiti di Brenta
East of Trento
The Catinaccio & Sella groups
Bolzano
Merano & the Giogaia di Tessa
Parco Naturalle dello Stelvio
Alpe di Siusi
Valle d’Isarco & Val Pusteria
Cortina d’Ampezzo & around
Travel details
CHAPTER 5: VENICE & THE VENETO
Venice
The Brenta
Padua
South of Padua
Vicenza
Verona
Treviso
Castelfranco Veneto & Cittadella
Bassano del Grappa & Marostica
Asolo & the Villa Barbaro
Feltre
Conegliano
Vittorio Veneto
Belluno
Travel details
CHAPTER 6: FRUILI-VENEZIA GIULIA
Trieste
Around Trieste: the Carso
The Triestine Riviera
Aquileia, Grado & around
Gorizia
Udine & around
Cividale del Friuli
Pordenone & around
Gemona & the Carnia
Travel details
CHAPTER 7: EMILIA ROMAGNA
Bologna
On from Bologna: south to Tuscany
South of Modena
Reggio Emilia
Parma
South of Parma
West to Piacenza
Piacenza
East along the Via Emilia from Bologna
Ferrara
The Po Delta
Ravenna & around
Rimini
Travel details
CHAPTER 8: TUSCANY
Florence
Around Florence
Pisa
Lucca
North of Pisa
Livorno
Elba
The islands around Elba
The Maremma coast
The island of Giglio
Siena & around
San Gimignano
Volterra
Massa Matíttima
Montepulciano & around
Pienza & around
Montalcino
Monte Amiata
Patigliano & around
Pisa Arezzo
Cortona
East of Arezzo
North of Arezzo
Travel details
CHAPTER 9: UMBRIA
Perugia
Lago Trasimeno
The Upper Tiber
Gubbio
Gualdo Tadino & around
Assisi
Spello to Trevi
Spoleto
The Valnerina & Norcia
Terni & around
Narni & around
Todi
Deruta & the Tiber Valley
Orvieto
Around Orvieto
Travel details
CHAPTER 10: MARCHE
Urbino
North of Urbino: Sassocorvaro & San Leo
Pesaro & around
Fano
Senigallia
Ancona & around
The Conero Riviera
Loreto
Recanati & Porto Recanati
Macerata
East of Macerata
Tolentino & around
South of Macerata: the road to Sarnano
The Monti Sibillini
Ascoli Piceno
Travel details
CHAPTER 11: ROME & LAZIO
Rome
Out from the city: Tivoli & Ostia
Etruria & the coast
Lago di Bracciano & around
Lago di Vico & around
Viterbo & around
Montefiascone, Lago di Bolsena & around
Rieti & around
The Castelli Romani & Alban Hills
Palestrina, Subiaco & the Ciociaria
The southern Lazio coast
The Pontine Islands
Travel details
CHAPTER 12: ABRUZZO & MOLISE
L’Aquila
The Gran Sasso & Campo Imperatore plain
South to Sulmona: Bominaco
Sulmona & around
South of Sulmona: Cocullo & Scanno
Southwest Abruzzo & the national park
Northeast Abruzzo:Teramo & around
The northern Abruzzo coast
Chieti, Guadiagrele & Lanciano
The southern Abruzzo coast
Isernia & around
Campobasso, Saepinum & the Matese
Towards the coast: Larino & the Albanian
villages
The Molise coast
Travel details
CHAPTER 13: CAMPANIA
Naples
West from Naples: Pozzuoli & the Campi Flegrei
East from Naples: Ercolano to Sorrento
The islands
North of Naples: Caserta, Capua & around
Benevento & around
The Amalfi coast
Salerno
Paestum
The Cilento
Travel details
CHAPTER 14: PUGLIA
Foggia & the Tavoliere
West & south of Foggia
Manfredonia & Siponto
The Gargano promontory
The Tremiti Islands
Along the coast to Bari
Bari
Le Murge
Down the coast from Bari
The FSE line
Taranto
Brindisi
Lecce & the Salentine peninsula
Travel details
CHAPTER 15: CALABRIA & BASILICATA
The northern Tyrrhenian coast
Cosenza & around
The Sila
The southern Tyrrhenian coast
Reggio province
Potenza & around
Matera & around
The northern Ionian coast
The southern Ionian coast
Travel details
CHAPTER 16: SICILY
Palermo
Around Palermo
Bagheria, Solunto, Termini Imerese & Caccamo
Cefalu
The coast to Milazzo & inland routes
The Aeolian Islands
Messina & south
Taormina
Around Mount Etna
Catania
The plain of Catania
Siracusa
Ragusa & the southeast
West to Gela
Agrigento
Eraclea Minoa
The Pelagie Islands
Inland to Enna
North of Enna
Piazza Armerina & around
Trapani
Erice & Segesta
The Egadi Islands
Trapani to Palermo: the coastal route
Marsala & Mazara del Vallo
Castelvetrano to Sciaccia
Pantelleria
Travel details
CHAPTER 17: SARDINIA
Cagliari
Nora
Su Nuraxi & around
West of Cagliari: Sant’Antioco & San Pietro
Oristano
Around Oristano: Tharros
Bosa
Nuoro & the interior
The eastern coast
Olbia
The Costa Smeralda
The Golfo di Arzachena
The Maddalena Islands
Santa Teresa di Gallura
Sassari
Around Sassari: inland Logudoro
Alghero
Stintino & Pelosa
Travel details
PART THREE CONTEXTS
The historical framework
Painting and sculpture
Architecture
Vernacular architecture
Mafia, ‘Ndrangheta, Camorra: socialized crime in Southern Italy
Cinema
Books
Language
Glossary of artistic and architectural terms
Glossary of words and acronyms
LIST OF MAPS
Italy
Trains & ferries
Chapter divisions
PIEMONTE & VAL D’AOSTA
Turin
Aosta
LIGURIA
Genoa
Genoa Old Town
Cinque Terre &
the Golfo dei Poeti
LOMBARDY &
THE LAKES
Milan
Milan metro
Central Milan
Cremona
Mantua
Bergamo
Brescia
TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Trento
Bolzano
VENICE & THE VENETO
Venice
San Marco
Padua
Vicenza
Verona
FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULI
Trieste
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Bologna
Modena
Parma
Ferrara
Ravenna
TUSCANY
Florence
Central Florence
Pisa
Lucca
Elba
Siena
Central Siena
San Gimignano
Montepulciano
Arezzo
UMBRIA
Perugia
Gubbio
Assisi
Spoleto
Orvieto
MARCHE
Urbino
Pesaro
Ascoli Piceno
ROME & LAZIO
Trains & metro
Rome
Central Rome
ABRUZZO & MOLISE
L’Aquila
CAMPANIA
Naples
Central Naples
Sorrento
PUGLIA
The Gargano Promontory
Bari
Taranto
Brindisi
Lecce
CALABRIA & BASILICATA
Cosenza
Reggio di Calabria
SICILY
Central Palermo
Catania
Siracusa
SARDINIA
Cagliari
Olbia
Sassari
Alghero