The book: in 1993-94 John Keay travelled from Sumatra to Irian, the length of Indonesia, and he describes his travels (and travails) and the people, their history and some good gossip, too, on the way. From the large centres to out-of-the-way villages, from famous temples to obscure historical link-point, he travelled by bus, boat and becak and met a host of people along the way.
The writer: John Keay has written histories of China and India, about the clove trade and the great Game, and many other books; this one is from 1995.
My opinion: very readable and very informative, a pleasure to take in and it all feels pretty well-informed, too. A bit out of date by now (Suharto was still in power...) but the history Keay gives is both racy and credible, and I like his respect for local people - coupled to a proper contempt for greedy politicians and vile colonialists (yes, I am Dutch, and ashamed of my country's history here). Good stuff.