What a great book. I was travelling to Portugal for my holiday and fancied trying a bit of surfing,so I thought I'd take this book to read.
The trouble is,after reading Allan's wild adventures down south in central America the thought of sitting in a mini bus with 10 other newbies and getting driven out to the nursery waves just seemed ridiculous :-)
This guy has lived a hell of a life,and if only 50% is true its still a cracking story.
The tension is hanging in the air all the way to Costa Rica. But humour too. And,of course,cracking stories of adventure on the waves.
I have to admit I probably wouldn't get on a boat with this sailor !
I enjoyed his surf philosophy too.
I laughed and i cried reading this book. I'm not going to give anything away though. Buy it. Take it on the road. Its where it belongs.