I have other good books on ice-climbing and mountaineering, most notably John Barry's superb, no-nonsense introduction to Alpinism and the BMCs Manual and winter training booklets & videos. However, I bought the hard-cover version of this while working in the USA, signed by the author, and it changed my life. After years of rock climbing and a promising start to ice-climbing in Scotland, I moved to America & was forced to give it up. This book re-awakened my interest and brought me bang up to date with the latest techniques, gear and thinking, and some personal insights often not shared (such as details of axe tip re-shaping). I subsequently climbed frozen waterfalls in the USA and French Alps. I really love this book, I like the pictures, the gear, the narrative, everything. I felt it captured that strange beauty and playfulness that I first experienced in the Cairngorms and on Ben Nevis in Scotland, where I had expected things to be only grim and dangerous.
I would say get John Barry's book first - it covers the basics/essentials very well. When you are ready for move up to more technical ice or more serious Alpinism, get this book. Equipment continues to evolve but this book was state of the art when it came out in 1996 and will stand you in good stead upto grade 8!! :D
I have heard some knockers of Jeff Lowe - but without exception this was simple jealousy of his accomplishments, high proile and his ability to promote himself and his sport - he is a remarkable man. Today I learnt that Jeff is now in a wheel chair with MS and is having difficulty with his speech -- it broke my heart to see and hear him brought low. However, ever the great man, he has apparently taken this well, God bless him, and is making what appears to be a compelling film about his ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, Direct 20 years ago (see youtube for more on that) - he is an inspiration still. And he can take comfort knowing that, he has live his life fully and with gusto, when he was able, he used his body to its full potential - how many can say that in this World? Thanks Jeff, you added a new dimension to my life.