The fashion photography of Helmut Newton. Helmut Newton once said, "Some people's photography is an art. Mine is not. If they happen to be exhibited in a gallery or a museum, that's fine. But that's not why I do them. I'm a gun for hire" ("Newsweek", 02/02/04). This prosaic proclamation from one of the 20th century's most celebrated photographers is not a little shocking, but nonetheless firmly positions Newton as the no-frills image-maker that he was. His work is so powerful, so striking, that it defies categorization. In refusing to call his work "art," Newton leaves us free to do so, and judging from the amount of museum and gallery shows that have featured his work, it is clear that the option has been widely exercised. This book brings together a selection of Newton's fashion catalog work from as early as 1962 through 2003 and his last editorial photographs for US and Italian Vogue - all work he made as a "gun for hire." The client list includes: BiBA, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Thierry Mugler, Blumarine, "Italian Vogue", "US Vogue", "German Vogue", Villeroy & Boch, Bikini Calendar for "Sportsmagazine", "Absolute Vodka".
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About the Author
Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970's while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
I like Helmut Newton's work. It's surreal and sexy. Bit I was very disappointed with this offering.
I would say that I have found that lots of books published post the photographers death generally do not live up to the work they do when they are alive. It's a generalisation I know but it seems that if they were about to edit the book they would do it differently.
In this case I bought the book to look at Newton's overall work but in effect this is a fashion book showing work he has done for Vogue et al. Ok the pictures are nice, but then again I am sure that Helmut Newton would see that as an insult. Nice isn't always artistic and Newton's surreal photography in the later part of his life id so much better then his run-of-the-mill fashion shoots.
In conclusion, if you are looking for a fashion book this is the book for you. If you are looking for a book which shows Helmu'ts unusual and radical photography however, then put this one back on the shelf.
I would say that I have found that lots of books published post the photographers death generally do not live up to the work they do when they are alive. It's a generalisation I know but it seems that if they were about to edit the book they would do it differently.
In this case I bought the book to look at Newton's overall work but in effect this is a fashion book showing work he has done for Vogue et al. Ok the pictures are nice, but then again I am sure that Helmut Newton would see that as an insult. Nice isn't always artistic and Newton's surreal photography in the later part of his life id so much better then his run-of-the-mill fashion shoots.
In conclusion, if you are looking for a fashion book this is the book for you. If you are looking for a book which shows Helmu'ts unusual and radical photography however, then put this one back on the shelf.
4 of 10 people found the following review helpful
By FrizzText
Format:Hardcover
The Christianity and even more the Islam have abolished to idolize woman as a goddess. However this was the daily use in the Greek, Roman and Egyptian religion (sorry to remember, that the Aztecs tore the heart of young virgins out of the live body). Newton has reversed this development - he told us, to idolize women again. I visited the Helmut Newton exhibition A GUN FOR HIRE in the "Museum for Photography" in Berlin, near the Station ZOO, Jebens-Street 2. Sometimes I thought Newton is cynical, contemptuous against women, emphasizes the power struggle between the sexes too much. After the reading of his autobiography I thought: "What a humorous, witty person! " After having the pleasure to watch the film of his wife on his work, I thought, oh God, I get dizzy by this hand-held shaking camera. After the reading of the museum catalogue A GUN FOR HIRE I always get quiet again. Newton was skilful. He regarded himself as A GUN FOR HIRE self ironically, as an unfortunately rentable killer because of the kind money. But if he had carried out a banal "killer" order with the necessary simple, most childish aesthetics guidelines for any fashion magazine, showing the models in a predefined wardrobe sales beneficially - then he afterwards extended the dialog with a lady in most cases after completion of this obedient work for the capitalist system of the chewing fan heating - then he enlarged the dialog into the direction of more human, erotic, adult and no longer infantile situations, real and no more prudishly, running free experimenting for new emotion and aura. The growing picture collection from the vermiform appendix after that official work peeled out that image, that unique art form, which everyone connects now with the name Helmut Newton - a milestone in the history of photography.... Read more ›
Most Helpful Customer Reviews on Amazon.com (beta)
Amazon.com:
4.2 out of 5 stars
4 reviews
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Best Newton book on the market!
9 Jan 2006
By Annick
- Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover
Highly recommended for anyone who knows Helmut Newton only by reputation. This doesn't show his most graphic work, but it has a nice range of his early editorial photos, fashion campaigns, absolut ads. This book is a great example of showcasing Newton's talent as a photographer. Instead of focusing on his sometimes intense sexual images, this book focuses on the composition, layout and colors his photography had. Don't worry, you Newton-lovers, the sexuality is still here for all to enjoy.
Newton is one of those photographers whose intense images and reputation can overshadow the actual brilliance of what's important...the photographs. If you are mostly familiar with his black and white photography, the colors in this book will take your breath away.
Don't be shy, this book will make you appreciate what a true talent Newton was without shocking you.
Newton is one of those photographers whose intense images and reputation can overshadow the actual brilliance of what's important...the photographs. If you are mostly familiar with his black and white photography, the colors in this book will take your breath away.
Don't be shy, this book will make you appreciate what a true talent Newton was without shocking you.
5 of 6 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars
slightly disappointing
29 Sep 2005
By J. Malnar
- Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover
While i like HN work and always pick out his style even if i dont know a particular photograph, this book was downright disappointing. Its like someone assembled pictures which weren't good enough to be included in any of the other (previous) books just to sell it to suckers who will buy anything by HN. However, i absolutely adored the 4 or 5 pics of Monica Belucci and bought the book solely on account of them.
4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
newton for the masses
10 Sep 2005
By BOYWAY
- Published on Amazon.com
Format:Hardcover
While I am always happy to grab a book full of naughty Newtons, it would have been even more wonderful to see the complete series of images that the undisputed master of kinky chic had created for the various euro fashion giants....some campaigns being a one season adventure, while others scandalized for years. The amount of advertising that he shot for french designer Yves Saint Laurent alone ,could easily fill a book. It was the perfect marriage of designer and imagist, followed very closely by Newton's ads for Thierry Mugler's erotically charged fashion fantasies. Sometimes it's hard to tell who came first, Newton or Mugler! In any case, Newton's unique imagry clearly remains unchallenged, even at their most commercial and subtle. The perfectly over groomed mannequins posed ever so precisely to convey roles of power, dominance , discipline, torture, fetishism and erotic menace...are all here. The acres of flawless,palest skin, highest heels, blood red lips, cold, smokey eyes often expressing a complete indifference to anyone looking on. The spectacularly graphic and bold compositions combined with the clever use of the blackest shadows as design devices instantly helps to define a Newton photograph. Many of the images showcasing his legendary wit and black humor, not to mention social and sexual comment.There's an amusing series shot for a calender with wickedly suggestive teenage lolitas posed at the ready in a desolate , dusty desertscape showing newton's playful and light hearted side.....very tongue and chic...and clearly inspired by one of his favorite themes, American Pop Culture. One missed opportunity for an amazing campaign would have been Helmut Newton for Tom Ford's Gucci....I can't imagine a more perfect union: A Newton "driving' a Ford to ecstasy....both men forever fascinated with drama, controversial lust and impossibly decadent glamour. If there was indeed some tests, it would be terrific fun if they ever surface. Paging mr. Ford....
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4.2 out of 5 stars
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