The poor old Muscat grape. As Oz Clarke laments in Grapes and Wines, "it is treated with casual disregard by the majority of wine drinkers". And yet it's as old as wine itself, and so versatile it can make outstanding wine sweet, medium, dry, sparkling or fortified. Those in the know love it for its fabulous, exotic perfume and the fact that it is perhaps the only wine that actually tastes of fresh grapes. So, without further ado, get stuck into a glass of Hacienda de Lluna Moscatel rosado, unearthed recently by our intrepid Spanish wine Buyer Beth. This modern, fruity, medium dry, semi sparkling rosť from sun blessed Valencia is indescribably moreish. Savour it well chilled - on its own, with grilled prawns or summer berry fruit salad.