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And yet it's showing its age; there's a liking for Good Solid Country House Fare rather than innovation, and it falters just where it should be strongest - at the top end of the price-and-ambition bracket. A marked tendency to overpraise the no more than solid is especially notable. Anything 4 or below is likely to be very ordinary indeed, unless it's ethnic, in which case it's probably been underrated. The GFG also suffers from a lack of international comparison - yes, Gordon Ramsay IS good, but nothing like as good as Michel Bras or Marc Veyrat or even Helene Darroze. So there's no reason for top UK restaurants to try to be the best in the world. (Yes, I know The Fat Duck has bveen hailed as the best restaurant in the world. I like it too, but not that much). Those in search of a different viewpoint might like to read GaultMillau's reviews of a select few English restaurants. We need a GaultMillau-style guide here - something snappish and irreverent.
Till then, all of us will be carrying the GFG in our gloveboxes; it's saved us from many terrible meals. It's not perfect, but it's the best we have.