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Review
In her relish for brassy blondes, gutsy flamboyance and tinsel vulgarity, Dyhouse writes like a woman who knows her way around the lipstick counter and the flea market. She shows how a parade in the trappings of glamour expressed aspiration and assertion at odds with mousy, unobtrusive conformity. Glamour was a cynical business, but also a shriek of camp defiance. All fur coat and no knickers. Dyhouse has whipped the stopper from a vintage bottle of 'Evening in Paris' and conjured a vanished world - cheap, a little tarty, but impossible to forget.' --Amanda Vickery
'In 'Glamour: Women, History, Feminism', Carol Dyhouse has written a study of the history of the conception of glamour in the twentieth century that is sprightly, provocative, and penetrating. She adds greatly to our understanding of a phenomenon that has been central to women's attitudes toward themselves, as they use the products of the beauty industry to both standardize their looks and to express cultural rebellion. This work will be interesting to both scholars and general readers alike.' --Lois Banner, author of 'American Beauty'
'Riveting - from perfume to sexual politics and the precise definition of "It", Dyhouse gives us an entertaining and innovative analysis of a topic that, while hitherto underexplored, has a huge impact on all our lives.' --Sarah Gristwood, author of 'Fabulous Frocks'
'In 'Glamour: Women, History, Feminism', Carol Dyhouse has written a study of the history of the conception of glamour in the twentieth century that is sprightly, provocative, and penetrating. She adds greatly to our understanding of a phenomenon that has been central to women's attitudes toward themselves, as they use the products of the beauty industry to both standardize their looks and to express cultural rebellion. This work will be interesting to both scholars and general readers alike.' --Lois Banner, author of 'American Beauty'
'Riveting - from perfume to sexual politics and the precise definition of "It", Dyhouse gives us an entertaining and innovative analysis of a topic that, while hitherto underexplored, has a huge impact on all our lives.' --Sarah Gristwood, author of 'Fabulous Frocks'
Product Description
How do we understand Glamour? Has it empowered women or turned them into objects? Once associated with modernity and the cutting edge, is it entirely bound up with nostalgia and tradition? This unique and fascinating book tells the story of glamour. It explores the changing meanings of the word, its relationship to femininity and fashion, and its place in twentieth century social history. Using a rich variety of sources - from women's magazines and film to social surveys and life histories - Carol Dyhouse examines with wit and insight the history and meaning of costume, cosmetics, perfume and fur. Dyhouse disentangles some of the arguments surrounding femininity, appearance and power, directly addressing feminist concerns. The book explores historical contexts in which glamour served as an expression of desire in women and an assertion of entitlement to the pleasures of affluence, finally arguing that glamour can't simply be dismissed as oppressive, or as male fantasy, but can carry celebratory meanings for women.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review
(What's this?)
When social historian Carol Dyhouse began work on this book, her academic colleagues joked that she was giving up her bluestockings for fishnets. In a way you can't blame them; the word "glamour" has in recent years become synonymous with the seedier side of modelling. However, this isn't a history of page three girls or a feminist study of women's exploitation in the marketplace. It's a history of the various ways in which women themselves have used fashion, costume, cosmetics and perfume as tools to present an image of themselves which can empower or ensnare.
Beginning at the dawn of the 20th century, she shows how fairytale exotica culled from trashy novels liberated women of all classes from the prison of modesty and breeding and helped them re-imagine themselves - not just to attract men, but to release their own repressed sense of selfhood. Proceeding chronologically, she shows how fashion mirrored the developing aspirations of women - from wartime through the materialism of the 50s and the realignments and revolutions of the 60s and 70s. She's a little less sure of herself when dealing with the "glamazons" of 80s power-dressing and the grunge waifs of the 90s, but her mini-biography of Diana, Princess of Wales in terms of her developing personal style is an apt illustration of how appearances can signal changing power ratios within a relationship, a family or even a state.
All in all this is a fascinating book, thought-provoking, well-illustrated and full of unexpected nuggets of fact and insight.
Beginning at the dawn of the 20th century, she shows how fairytale exotica culled from trashy novels liberated women of all classes from the prison of modesty and breeding and helped them re-imagine themselves - not just to attract men, but to release their own repressed sense of selfhood. Proceeding chronologically, she shows how fashion mirrored the developing aspirations of women - from wartime through the materialism of the 50s and the realignments and revolutions of the 60s and 70s. She's a little less sure of herself when dealing with the "glamazons" of 80s power-dressing and the grunge waifs of the 90s, but her mini-biography of Diana, Princess of Wales in terms of her developing personal style is an apt illustration of how appearances can signal changing power ratios within a relationship, a family or even a state.
All in all this is a fascinating book, thought-provoking, well-illustrated and full of unexpected nuggets of fact and insight.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
Carol Dyhouse is a social historian who has written books on womens lives in 19th and 20th century Britain. Here she has written about Glamour - what it means and how it has changed over the years.
When I think of glamour I usually just think of those seedy glamour shots and tacky glamour models but this has provided a whole new insight. Full of interesting information on all aspects from designers to perfume, fur coats to actresses and all their different types of glamour (innocent to dark film noir) I had no idea of the origins (the word originated in 1800s and meant at one time, the occult. I also learnt about where cheesecake originated from which is something that has interested me. There is so much info to take in and so many interesting pictures from old photos to advertisements from magazines. It really covers all areas.
This is the ideal book for anyone, like myself, who is interested in social history, beauty or fashion (especially vintage). I am definitely recommending this to my fellow vintage fashion lovers.
When I think of glamour I usually just think of those seedy glamour shots and tacky glamour models but this has provided a whole new insight. Full of interesting information on all aspects from designers to perfume, fur coats to actresses and all their different types of glamour (innocent to dark film noir) I had no idea of the origins (the word originated in 1800s and meant at one time, the occult. I also learnt about where cheesecake originated from which is something that has interested me. There is so much info to take in and so many interesting pictures from old photos to advertisements from magazines. It really covers all areas.
This is the ideal book for anyone, like myself, who is interested in social history, beauty or fashion (especially vintage). I am definitely recommending this to my fellow vintage fashion lovers.
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review
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I was in two minds whether to have this book; the dreaded 'F' word on the cover almost dissuaded me. But I would have denied myself an interesting and well-written analysis of glamour and its various meanings.
The author's research is irreproachable and the reproductions of both black-and-white and colour posters, advertisements and photographs are fascinating in their own right. The style of writing is cogent, witty without being flippant and is never dry-academia. Glamour, of course, applies to men as well as to women although it is mostly concerning women that Ms Dyhouse writes.
I was interested to follow Ms Dyhouse's suggestion that the women who cultivated glamour in the first half of the twentieth century were women striving for freedom of personal expression, women who were willing to stand alone if necessary and were not by any means the docile, man-dependent fashion-slaves one might think. The examples she quotes (Dietrich, Garbo et al) show quite clearly as determined and autonomous women and from this Ms Dyhouse proposes that the true interpretation of feminism is that a woman feels confident enough to be herself. Make-up, high heels, silk stockings and all, if that is her desire.
I could not agree more. Beautifully presented with a wealth of fascinating illustrations, this book sheds a different light on the glamorous woman. And indeed, on the glamorous man, a being who is too often overlooked (sigh). I enjoyed this book immensely.
The author's research is irreproachable and the reproductions of both black-and-white and colour posters, advertisements and photographs are fascinating in their own right. The style of writing is cogent, witty without being flippant and is never dry-academia. Glamour, of course, applies to men as well as to women although it is mostly concerning women that Ms Dyhouse writes.
I was interested to follow Ms Dyhouse's suggestion that the women who cultivated glamour in the first half of the twentieth century were women striving for freedom of personal expression, women who were willing to stand alone if necessary and were not by any means the docile, man-dependent fashion-slaves one might think. The examples she quotes (Dietrich, Garbo et al) show quite clearly as determined and autonomous women and from this Ms Dyhouse proposes that the true interpretation of feminism is that a woman feels confident enough to be herself. Make-up, high heels, silk stockings and all, if that is her desire.
I could not agree more. Beautifully presented with a wealth of fascinating illustrations, this book sheds a different light on the glamorous woman. And indeed, on the glamorous man, a being who is too often overlooked (sigh). I enjoyed this book immensely.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Glamour from a different angle
Carol Dyhouse has managed to produce a book that is not only useful and accurate for any student of social history but is also lively and interesting enough to appeal to the more... Read more
Published 18 months ago by Ms. H. Sinton
Lacking glamour in the execution.
A bit disappointed with this book, which tries to apply a rather dry academic style (in the interests of coming across as 'intellectual'?) to a somewhat subjective topic - glamour. Read more
Published 18 months ago by RSM
An interesting and enjoyable book
This is a really interesting book. It is well written in plain non academic english so it's nice and easy to read. Read more
Published 19 months ago by Phillysound2
Glosses over the subject
Disclaimer:
I spent an hour reading from the start before giving up with boredom. I sat on it for a few months before picking it up again. Read more
I spent an hour reading from the start before giving up with boredom. I sat on it for a few months before picking it up again. Read more
Published on 25 Feb 2010 by BS on parade
A worthy title, but surprisingly academic
This book is obviously well researched and put together, but on reading through it, I can't help but think it is missing a commentary, argument, or 'author voice' to set all those... Read more
Published on 18 Jan 2010 by M. Bhangal
Brilliant book, useful for both history and art/design
This title appealed to me having just had a conversation with a friend's daughter who is doing an Art GCSE, based around 20th century fashions. Read more
Published on 22 Dec 2009 by Joanne K. Pilsworth
Fascinating and well written. A personal documentary.
Carol Dyhouse is clearly an academic. She is good with language, and understands her subject. In the hands of some academics I know, this could have turned into a rather dry... Read more
Published on 22 Dec 2009 by Peter Coupe
Interesting look at women in recent history
I have long been interested in art deco architecture but have not had much knowledge of the women of the same era. Read more
Published on 19 Dec 2009 by Mozzie
Very Interesting
This is the kind of history book that I love. It is very well-researched, and although it looks very much like a text book that might accompany a university course, it manages to... Read more
Published on 17 Dec 2009 by Basement Cat
a fascinating investigation
Dyhouse's book is nonetheless a fascinating investigation on the subject of glamour which is refreshing rather academic tipping closer to BBC Four than Fashion TV. Read more
Published on 10 Dec 2009 by Stuart Burns
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