- Hardcover: 416 pages
- Publisher: HarperCollins Publishers; 1 edition (Feb 2003)
- Language English
- ISBN-10: 0060199040
- ISBN-13: 978-0060199043
- Product Dimensions: 23.6 x 16.2 x 3.4 cm
- Amazon Bestsellers Rank: 849,476 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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First, I'll give credit to Ralph (Lifschitz) Lauren for being so clever as to repackage the classics and build an empire based on the Great WASP way of life--the one that so many people aspire to. It was brilliant, and if I had been the one to pull it off, I would smile all the way to the bank.
Secondly, I give well-deserved credit to Michael Gross for sweeping away the pixie dust and writing about what is actually behind this purveyor of "lifestyle goods." I wouldn't say that there are a great number of surprises; rather, the story he tells confirms (in detail) what most of us already know--that the fashion industry is so much smoke and mirrors, and why would Ralph be any different? He hasn't been innovative and shocking in the way that you see styles emerge from other designers, but he chose to reinvent himself and at the same time, package it all quite nicely and ready-to-consume by the insecure masses.
Michael Gross reveals that the real money in the Lauren company is made on khakis and polo shirts and that Ralph may be out of touch with who his customer really is. That polo shirt with the pony logo shows up on the backs of so many beefy, paunchy, male members of the corportate bourgeousie (middle class strivers) as opposed to those of the old Blue Book families for whom L.L. Bean is just fine, thank you. I recall once seeing a Ralph Lauren navy blazer for women with this obtrusive gold "Ralph Lauren" crest on the chest and thinking, "You must be kidding. That's downright embarrassing."
So, why would you want to read this book?
1. There's an all-American Horatio Alger type story within these pages.
2. You'll see how one man pulled all this off, and read about the realities and the pitfalls of his journey from the Bronx to his vast stage-set estates.
3. Learn something about the rag trade and licensing. Your own closet may not look the same upon close examination.
4. Realize that "discontent is the cornerstone of our consumer culture." (Sorry, I can't remember who said that.) The need to express status runs deep, and people in social distress often consume their way into "meaning." It can be costly to be a victim.
5. Dig a little deeper into this story and see that it is truly an authentic American tale based on choreographed gentility (down to the last threadbare oriental rug). The Ralph Lauren stores are pretty, and the ambience romances the all the stuff nicely, but be aware that it's all facade--a "fop house."
In summary, this book was interesting and worth the read. I'll let Henry James have the last word here:
"You are rich if you can meet the needs of your imagination."
The book is well worth reading for the education it gives the reader about the clothing business and "designer" labels as well as the telling insights into RL himself. In short, RL has cashed in on the preppy WASP persona but, to this day, doesn't really "get it" himself. Upon being questioned about art in his "WASP" designed house, he cannot identify artists on his wall and brags that he just goes by "feel." Clearly, he doesn't understand that the way of life he imitates includes education and culture, neither of which he has to this very day.
The book is also a wonderful education for the clothes buyer. You know those outlet bargains? I guess they are not, since a whole line goes straight from the factory to the outlet. Did you think that you were the only one who did not buy the $100 blouse at the department store? Looks like no one else buys much either. The money gets made from those pique shirts. Buyer beware.
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