If you want to know what life in nineties britain was actually like, you need to buy this book.
It collects Self's articles from his various endeavours, including restaurant reviews(including McDonald's), Political and philosophical musings, surreal accounts of sojourns to the Orkneys and many articles on books, art exhibtions, architecture and cinema. It builds up a very dark and idiosyncratic take on nineties Britain that rings especially true in hindsight.
As this was my first foray into the world of Self, I was bowled over by his vocabulary and his ability to create unusual nightmarish visons in the mind of the reader, but any sense of intimidation is tempered and dulled by the frequent hilarity in his analyses and evocations, including an inverse ratio of pulchritude in diners and waiters, where if the waiters and diners are both similar in attractiveness, the food is bound to be awful. You will find numerous departures from reality in even the most functional review; from flies in tweed suits to the 'inundations of glutinous patties' at McDonald's. There are the tangental juxtapositions of high and low culture: the idea of Bertrand Russell force-feeding a Pot Noodle to protege Ludwig Wittgenstein is one notable example.
As expected, cultural references are many, and will be obscure to some, but Self is the last writer who should be expected to appease the casual reader, as a lot of his appeal is, or was, his complex prose and status as an enfant terrible of British literary life, not that he'd necessarily agree, as most interviewers find out when they try and categorise him and his work.
Overall, a very witty, concise and unique collection that paints a revealing picture of a chaotic and unsettled cultural scene in the UK. Just make sure you have a very good dictionary to hand.