32 of 32 people found the following review helpful
- Published on Amazon.com
Applied properly, lightweight spackle completely fills a hole (even large holes) with one application, requiring no sanding, and not even requiring touch-up painting if applied to a flat bright white surface.
"Regular" spackle is likely to shrink or sag and flow, requiring several applications and sanding. Lightweight spackle does NOT shrink, sag, or flow.
FOR BEST RESULTS
->Fresh lightweight spackle (from a newly opened container) works best. Opened containers dry out quickly, and even slightly dried lightweight spackle does not work nearly as well. Therefore:
-->Use the smallest container (4oz) you can buy. If you are filling many holes, then refill the small container from a larger container.
-->Do not leave the container uncovered. Place the lid loosely over the container while working, and open only to scrap out a little spackle at a time for immediate use. Snap the lid completely shut anytime you won't be opening it for more than 5 minutes
-->Do NOT scrape excess from your spatula back into the container. Discard any excess or used spackle.
-->Be sure to snap the lids completely shut before storing containers. Store opened containers in a cool location, ideally in a tightly closed plastic bag.
-->If you haven't used a opened container for 6 months or so, it is best to buy a new one--particularly if you try to use it, and it doesn't work well.
->Use a flexible spatula at least twice as wide as the hole. I've found that cheap plastic spatulas (aka putty knives) work best, and it is best to have a variety of widths (1", 1 1/2", 2", 3", 5" etc). However, old thick plastic "credit cards", hotel key-cards or "membership cards" work very well. Linzer 7103S Plastic Putty Knives, 3-Inch
->For each hole, apply more (fresh) spackle than you think you will need. Bend the spatula to apply pressure to force the spackle into the hole, while "swiping" downward. Discard any excess. There's an art, and it takes a little practice.
->When filling a large hole (>2" in diameter) which goes all the way through plasterboard, it is best to attach a rigid backing in place. A piece of corrugated cardboard at least an inch larger than the hole in one dimension, is usually best, and can be glued in place with white household glue. A string loop through the cardboard and a stick to tighten the string can hold the cardboard in place until it dries. When dry, trim off the string, and fill the hole with lightweight spackle.
->Deep holes (e.g., around water or AC lines punched through concrete block) are often most conveniently filled with spray foam insulating material. Finish up the last inch with lightweight spackle. Dow Chemical Co. 157901 Great Stuff Insulating Foam Sealant for Gaps & Cracks The insulation also minimizes condensation around the pipe which might weaken the lightweight spackle.
->Sometimes it is hard to perfectly fill a large hole (i.e., a hole larger than 2" in diameter. In such cases, the "least number-of-steps solution" is to slightly overfill the hole, and then sand the spackle flush when it dries. A medium-grit sanding sponge works very well for this purpose. 3M 908NA Small Area Sanding Sponge, 3.75 in x 2.625 in x 1 in, Fine/Medium. Some "sticklers" may object that sanding sponges are intended for curved surfaces etc., but in fact a sanding sponge simply works better than sanding paper on a sanding block for this application.
->Large (>2") shallow (<1/8") depressions are particularly difficult, but can be filled, but may require several steps: 1) apply spackle, wait for it to dry, 2) apply more to fill any gaps missed in the first application. Be sure to use a large enough spatula. Sanding the bottom surface of the depression and VERY slightly moistening the surface can make it easier.
->Small holes, particularly in wood (e.g., interior painted doors) are likely to have raised edges. In that case, use a rigid metal spatula (or putty knife, or wood chisel) to scrape the surface flat before applying the lightweight spackle, Red Devil 4701 1.25-Inch Stiff Metal Putty Knife or sand the surface flat.
->If filling a depression left by previous use of ordinary spackle, sand the surface flat before filling with lightweight spackle.
->As you work, alot falls on the floor. If you are doing alot of work, putting down newspaper helps---but the newspaper easily shifts. I find it most convenient to tape the newspaper to the wall (a little turned up to the wall) with blue masking tape. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape, Advanced Multi-Surface, .94-Inch by 60-Yard
->As already mentioned, if your surfaces are bright flat white, the hole is likely to be invisible, requiring no touch-up painting.
->If you have a choice between "interior" and "exterior" (or "interior/exterior") lightweight spackle---"interior" is easier to use, and should be used for all interior work.
->"interior" lightweight spackle can be used to fill exterior holes, if you paint over the spackle after it dries.
->Since I've warned you NOT to scrape excess spackle back into the container---you need some way to clean your spatula between applications. The easiest way to scrape excess spackle off a spatula is with a slightly larger spatula--another reason to have a variety of sizes. But even so, dried spackle will accumulate on the spatula, and will need to be wiped off with a damp cloth regularly. Indeed, an absolutely clean, damp, plastic spatula works best---which is particularly worth remembering for large and/or difficult holes.