For many years Chris Bonington was one of the leading organizers of British climbing expeditions and a superb climber in his own right. He wrote a whole series of books around his expeditions, all of them well worth reading of you like these kind of books. In "Everest the Hard Way" he leads a team that successfully climbs to the top via the South West Face. This was back in August 1975, and it was (and is) a pretty amazing story. There are some great descriptions of the climb, the camps, the preparation, the personalities of the climbers. I picked up this one when it was first published and highly recommend it! I've been to Base Camp myself, looked at the mountain, and there's no way I'd be trying it, even the easy way! But I don't mind reading about it!
The climbing team that Bonington put together for this expeiditon reads like a whos' who of British climbing in the 70's - and sadly, a number of them later died in climbing accidents. This particular expedition lost one climber, Mick Burke, in a summit bid. Basically, they climbed the south-west face of Everest, the steepest and highest face in the world, including the sheer 1000 ft "Rock Band" at 26,000 ft. They put up 6 camps, the highest just above the Rock Band at 27,300 ft and in one of the summit attempts, 2 members of the team successfuly bivouaced out on the South Summit.
The books got a great collection of photos, like most of Bonington's books do, as well as a huge series of appendices (150 pages out of the 350 page book) on the organisational, logistical and other aspects of the expedition. Like all Bonington's books, it's well written, descriptive, and conveys the challenges, both physical and mental, that the climbing team faced. Published in 1976, it's still, 30 years on, a really good read about a climbing team that took on one of the toughest climbs in the world and suceeded.