Before I read this I did have a dim idea that the longest man-made canal was in China (I visited Shanghai and Beijing a couple of years back), but there it ended. Now, I don't know which mind-boggling statistic to repeat first - let me see as I flick through the first chapter... erm, it's 2,500 years old, as long as the distance from London to Tunis or New York to Miami, carries 260,000,000 tons of cargo a year, and I could go on quoting...! Liam D'Arcy-Brown's first book on China (Green Dragon, Sombre Warrior) was beautifully written and was one of the round-about reasons I ended up travelling out there, and so I got The Emperor's River as a pre-order. To sum up, he's the first Westerner in two centuries to travel the length of the Grand Canal of China from Hangzhou to Beijing, and he does this by "bribing and talking his way" onto 1,000-ton bulk-cargo barges (I don't want to spoil the plot, but China's geography and police conspire to make the trip more complicated and less watery than you might expect). As the journey unfolds, D'Arcy-Brown introduces the ways by which the Chinese are reinventing their relationship with the Grand Canal, and by the time he reaches Beijing three months later (he adds, almost as an aside on a couple of occasions, that this trip started just three days after he got married, a personal detail I might have liked to hear more about) we've learned that the communist party is promoting the canal as another example of why Chinese culture is far and away better than the West's. Just like in Green Dragon, Sombre Warrior, he brings in fascinating characters he meets along the way, and he has the same nicely-tuned ear for dialogue that made that book such a beautiful read. After plodding my way through several "novelty" travelogues that had been recommended to me, it was a pleasure to read something of substance by a travel writer who really understands his subject and its country (he's a fluent Mandarin speaker). It gets a strong four from me. I wanted to know more about his poor wife...