In tracing the historical development of Italian cuisine, John Dickie demolishes the stereotypical image of the rural Italian cook and relates the Italian approach to food to a range of distinctive regional styles each centred around a major city. He examines the challenges of cooking and eating in Italy from massive medieval banquets to the cholera-infested slums of Naples, considering the political and social issues that have contributed to the food we would define as 'Italian' today.
This is not really a book about types of food, it is a cultural and social history, an examination of how attitudes to eating have evolved and been shaped by social and economic considerations. Dickie is interested in those who wrote about food, those who have sought to capture the culinary styles of their times and he brings these historical figures to life in a vivid style.
The book is lively, humorous and entertaining. Dickie's writing manages to be factual but never dry. This is a bright and highly enjoyable work which makes you want to dig your cookbooks out and try out some of the food for yourself.