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Three years later I got diverted in Trieste and ended up in Pula instead of
Athens, and worked my way down the coast as far as Split again, stopping in
at Rab, and then for a week at the lovely Paklenica national park (still a
Croatian favourite). To get back to where I was going I went up through the
country to Zagreb, and saw the Plitvice Lakes for the first time. I
travelled inland, and visited the pretty baroque town of Vukovar, then
wandered up through Osijek into Hungary.
It wasn't long before I was hammering at Bradt's door and clamouring to
write about (what was then) Yugoslavia. That book came out in 1989, just in
time to be washed away by the war - I spent 1991 glued to the television
set, watching in horror as Vukovar fell and Dubrovnik was shelled, and had
to wait a decade for my second chance.
My Bradt guide to Croatia was published in 2003 and now, four years later,
here's the third edition: every hotel, restaurant, museum and national
park, along with their associated costs, has been re-visited, revised and
re-worked, so what you have here is the most comprehensive and (I hope)
useful guide to the country - and the only one which covers all the
national parks and nature reserves.
--This text refers to an alternate
Paperback
edition.
This guide manages to elegantly straddle the divide between "travel writing" and the "travel guide", providing concise and clear information on all the things you could want or need to know - including what really happens at the bus stop after a long day's hike and when there's only one way back to a bed and a meal! Everything the veteran independent traveller needs is here, including how to cope as a vegetarian or as a lone female, and where to sleep if you're short of cash. At the same time though, it is a compelling and enjoyable read that sows just the right number of seeds. The invitation is not only to travel to Croatia for a holiday (whether for its beaches, sailing and gastronomy, for its towns, architecture and history, or for its mountains and wildlife), but one is inticed to go on discovering an intimacy so lovingly revealed, with a country full of startling richness.
And Letcher knows his stuff. Because he has done the hard miles around this dramatic country, and shares his knowledge in a diverting, modern style which updates the works he cites as references and establishes this book as the new standard.
I have shown this book to Croatians living here and they have said he has got it just right. I have had a brief trip there too using this book very much as a vade mecum in situ and it proved itself admirable as a practical guide. Buy this, and then treat yourself to his book about France too.
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