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4.3 out of 5 stars
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4.3 out of 5 stars
Size: 120 mm Radiator|Style Name: H60|Change
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on 26 July 2013
So I installed this fantastic cooler on my new Corsair 650d case, a Z77 Sabertooth housing a i3770k processor running at 3.5ghz. New build, hadn't even installed Windows 7 yet.

It should be noted, that I replaced the stock H100i fans with 2 Corsair SP 120mm fans, "quiet" editions, designed to push air through radiators.

I OC'd the CPU to 4.5ghz via the bios straight away, Windows loaded. Good, no voltage problems then.

Checked the idle temps, they were running at around 35-40c with my CPU OC'd to 4.5ghz. Okay, fine I guessed. Seen higher.

Under full load, after an hour or so of Battlefield 3, I minimized to desktop and checked CPU-Z to see the CPU temps. 80-85c. Wow, that's hot. But hey, I'm OCing.

Turns out, that's actually FAR too hot.

Hmm, problem then. I uninstalled the H100i and looked at the CPU. Only about 3/4 of the CPU was covered in the thermal compound that comes with the H100i pre-applied. That's...weird.

I checked online, and apparently the mounting bracket, although completely symmetrical, HAS JUST ONE WAY TO BE INSTALLED on the back of the motherboard. It has 2 notches that have to be oriented upward. Because the backplate is symmetrical and fits at whatever orientation you want, you never assume you've installed it incorrectly.

This is the single, most common error H100i users make.

I re-oriented the backplate and installed the H100i again, AND swapped the SP fans to the stock ones as, apparently, they run cooler if louder.

Fired her up, checked the idle temps after leaving Windows running for about 10 minutes while I had some lunch.

Idling was now 20-25c across the 4 cores. Played Battlefield 3 for an hour again, same settings, same overclocked as earlier, max temp reached was 63c, the other cores at 59-62c. MASSIVE difference.

Turns out then, that because I orientated the backplate incorrectly, the CPU block fited, BUT, I wasn't getting full, flush contact over the CPU. So my temps went higher than they should have been.

I'm going to wipe away the stock paste and replace it with some Arctic MX-2 paste I just recieved, and I assume it will drop the temps a few more degrees. Because as we should all know - lower temps = more overclocking potential as well as longer component life expectancy.

-------------------------

The radiator, fans and CPU block are easy to install. It's all pre-sealed and liquid filled already, never leaks so don't worry. It's one whole unit, so the radiator, pipes and CPU block are all attached already. You just have to attach the backplate to your motherboard (if you can't access the back of your motherboard via your case, INSTALL THIS BEFORE INSTALLING THE MOTHERBOARD otherwise you have to take the motherboard out), screw in the fans, screw the radiator to the case's ceiling, attach the 2 fans to the adaptor, connect that to the block, connect the included mini-usb to the block and to the motherboard for the software to work, and connect the CPU fan connector to the motherboard, and you're done.

You have to hold the backplate in place as you screw in the mounting screws for the plate that attaches to the CPU block, which you then tighten into place using 4 nice and chunky thumb screws, so it can initially be a bit of a fiddling pain to get the screws into place. More annoying is holding the CPU block in place so you don't smudge the compound around too much when putting the thumb screws on.

Also, for some reason, the stock fans don't have arrows on them to show air movement/direction. I had to refer to my SP fans from Corsair to conclude that if the Corsair logo is facing you, the air is moved away from you.

The stock fans are surprisingly loud under max RPMs. And my PC sounded like a jet taking off when I installed them.

But the H100i comes with incredibly easy to use software that you can control the colour of the CPU block logo, see the CPU temps and voltage, but most importantly, the fan speeds. They were set to max because the SP fans were so quiet, so I set the software to have then running as fast at they could. I changed the setting to "performance" so the fans would throttle up and down when needed, and they instantly went from around 2000 RPM to about 1300, and quietened right down.

I do wear headphones while gaming so don't hear the fans, but taking my headphones off under full load...yeah, the stock fans could be quieter But CPUs are confirmed to run cooler on the stock fans, so it's a sacrifice I'm willing to have.

When I apply the thermal paste, I'll give the fans a run again and see what the temps do. I'll then note them and swap the stock fans for the SP ones I have so they run quieter, and see what the temps do then. Find a balance somehow.

The manual is kind of useless. It just says, for example, "install the fans" with an image. What orientation?

"Connect the backplate and use the screws to secure." Well, it's for AMD AND Intel chips, each requires a different screw type that comes with the H100i. Which type do I use? I'll use this type. Nope, wrong, that's the AMD ones after trying to mount the block and realizing the screws were too short.

Just unnecessary frustration.

Also, the fan connector/adapter you attach to the block that runs the radiator fans is a little flimsy, and hard to install as you can't see the top of the block if your motherboard is in the case (why wouldn't it be if you're installing the radiator?).

So a little finicky to install with slightly dumb instructions but does tell you all you need to do, just not how sometimes, stock fans are slightly too loud under full load but then I am OCing an Ivy Bridge chip, so it's going to get hot.

BUT.

Incredible cooling with a solid, well-made feel.

Worth the purchase.
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on 7 March 2015
My computer hasn't been used for a while due to work commitments, today I found some spare play time, I plugged in and connected up my computer only to find it wouldn't start. After checking all the normal stuff I pulled the side panel off. What I saw inside my case filled my with surprise, followed by disappointment, followed by anger. My Corsair Hydro H60 had developed a coolant leak from the rubber pipe where they join the radiator, the coolant dripped straight onto my EVGA Nvidia GTX 770 GeForce Video Card and has also contaminated my Gigabyte Z87X-UD5H Motherboard with a build up of residue left by dried up Coolant. The system as it is is now useless. I researched this potential to leak and found lots of reports of other Corsair customers having similar problems. I was going to clean off the corrosion but was advised by a retailer not to touch it just in case Corsair ask for all the contaminated parts back. I just hope that Corsair have addressed this issue in future production, this issue causes mass damage if not noticed immediately. I also hope Corsair do the right thing by me and replace all the parts of my computer that have been damaged by their faulty fan. So very disappointing in this product, I will be calling Corsair on Monday to see how I stand with replacing all the damaged parts, at the moment I don't now the full damage, there are signs of green crusty residue on most parts but I am sure the PSU, CPU and memory will be just fine. My conclusion is Buyer beware, a brilliant fan when all is working well, a silent killer if its leaks, please if you have one of these or are buying one please check all your rubber pipe joints regularly for coolant staining, this might give you a chance of saving your system.
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on 31 March 2014
When I first started building my own PCs, I would never have considered a water block, due to a basic wariness behind mixing water pumps and expensive electronics. Technology moves on however, and I had read about the benefits of this tech in regards CPU cooling over conventional air coolers, but more importantly their more silent operation and reliability. So, I opted for this H60 cooler, due to the largely positive reviews and moderate price.

Installing the H60 was easier than I thought; the hardest part was attaching the radiator to an already existing fan in the top my Silverstone case (install guide recommends pumps are on the underside of the radiator for optimal performance, while the fan must pull cool air in on top of it). The radiator was more rectangular than the fan, and I could only fit the long screws through two of the corners of the fan unit to attach at a right angled orientation, which meant unscrewing the fan unit. Eventually, the radiator was set up and that only left the cooler block.

Since I'm using an AMD setup, the bracket was easy to attach to the board; two screw-clips are attached to the bracket and the bracket is hooked over the cooling block, onto the standard AMD fan mount. Tighten up the clips and that's it. However, if you've an Intel setup, I don't think you would have such an easy time of it, as the brackets and process to attach them look more convoluted. I also note another reviewer having a torrid time with this - I suspect they are using an Intel MB.

Having turned everything on (and after a few MB configuration mis-steps) I wasn't sure if the cooler was working. There was no immediately visible means of determining this; no lights or buzzing or sounds of liquid moving about inside the radiator. I had seen a Corsair cooler light up and expected that my item was a dud - until I went online and researched it properly. The H60 does not, in fact light up when it is on. The only viable means of determining whether it is working is a) the RPM on your MB fan monitor and b) the CPU temperature reading. Not exactly reassuring when you are basically relying on it working out of the box to not fry your processor!

At any rate, results-wise, I cranked my FX8320 up to 4.5Ghz and its temperature has not yet exceeded 42 degrees, which I think is acceptable for how I set up the airflow in the case. You simply would not get that with a conventional air cooler (at least at the price of the H60) - plus you have the added bonus of it being virtually silent.
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on 15 March 2015
I was lucky to have my brother to help me set up the cooler. It would have been very difficult to do alone. The instructions are a little crap due to the pictures.

On the other hand, it's currently working well. I have heard of issues where the pump stops working. I hope this doesn't happen to me. The temperature is around 28 on idle and goes to about 33 on usage.

It's nice.
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on 16 June 2015
I love Corsair kit. I really do. I've bought the brand for years. It carries a cost, but the build quality - from case to keyboard - is undeniable.
So when I plumped for the new H100i GTX as my first ever CPU water cooler, I was confident I wouldn't be disappointed. This 2015 upgrade from the hugely popular H100 and H100i has had a couple of 4-5 star reviews from hardware specialists, although at the time of writing (15th June 2015) the mainstream PC gurus haven't yet released their verdicts.

So here's my tuppenceworth and I hope it's useful.

The radiator gets 9/10. Tight coils, nice and deep (2.5cm) but not perfect; my unit has three manufacturing/handling flaws - two malformed coils and one what looks like a light surface scrape extending about two inches. Indicative of a typically high-volume manufacturing plant (somewhere in Asia) but nothing that would really affect the radiator's performance.

The braided, generously-girthed pipes are gorgeously black, slinky, and tight on the plugs. They get an easy 10/10. No chance of crimping them, even in a cramped situation. This is not a unit that's going to leak over your precious mobo any time soon.
But seriously, 10.

The fans get an 8. They're a specialised version of Corsair's ever-popular High Performance SP120's, with slightly higher max rpm and decently gentle 37.7dBA standard (quiet) operating mode. That isn't enough to make them quieter than the air cooling unit they've replaced in my case - the single 140mm fan on a Cooler Master Evo Hyper 212 - but they are more effective in terms of cpu cooling in a pull config (30C idle, as opposed to 34C idle).

No rubber grommets or built-in rubberised corners though, and at "performance" speed the stock fans howl like banshees. You will absolutely *not* want to set these fans to Performance Mode unless you're wearing very good headphones or going for volume on your Dolby set.
The pump gets a 10/10. It's absolutely doing its job, and virtually noiseless in all modes as far as I can tell.

Overall build quality is absolutely solid. The circular copper faceplate is high quality, and even with the stock TIM I've got a drop - as mentioned above - of a respectable 4C from my old Hyper 212.

My real bugbears are in the design, and I have three of them.

1) ATTENTION AMD USERS:
While the H100i GTX claims to be AM3 socket compatible, and technically is, Corsair have dropped the ball. There's a micro USB port on the pump head and a supplied micro-USB to USB header cable included in the box. Unfortunately, this cable (which powers the pump) is a 90-deg version which you can't use with the AMD adapter plate because one of the large fixing thumbscrews is completely in the way. You have to force the USB cable in (which I did, very uncomfortably) which twists the cable plug out of alignment with its rubber/plastic hood and will probably divide its useful lifetime by a factor of .. urk.

Admittedly, this can be avoided if you rotate the pump head by 90 degrees. But then the Corsair logo is pointing at the sky. Nope. Sorry Corsair, this is a fail.

2) ATTENTION ALL USERS:
The supplied screws to affix the radiator to your PC case are stupidly short. I am mounting the latest Corsair water-cooling product to a Corsair 750D case - two of what should be perfectly matched products - and I can't do it properly. The lovely rubber-grommeted mounts on the top of my case are too deep for these stunted excuses to run through, let alone with the recommended washers. It's a bit of a Heath Robinson, Corsair.

3) ATTENTION CORSAIR:
Your Link software is awful. It's unintuitive and over-complicated. I'm presented with a picture of an empty PC case and a list of dials, meters and probes..ugh. What's supposed to be a useful tool to control my hardware is actually, after 5 minutes of confused fiddling, something I've consigned to the waste basket. LED colour control is a one-off toy but I get the feeling that's the only reason to download Link. The hardware I'm told I can configure in so many confusing ways.. well, that same hardware actually seems to do a very fine job out of the box. Why overcomplicate everything?

With the bugbears over, I have to say that the H100i GTX is a nice piece of kit. I don't regret buying it, although I can't help but feel that the (admittedly high-end) air-cooling unit it's replaced did just as good a job, and somewhat more quietly.

But - and here's the rub - I intend to experiment with a bit of harmless overclocking. And for that, I have every confidence the H100i GTX is going to tip the balance.

I'll update this review in a couple of months - assuming I haven't burnt my precious AMD chip to a watery cinder ;)
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on 14 July 2015
I decided to go for this AIO cooling system for my i5-2500k ( still not clocked ) as I believe it'll soon start bottle-necking my graphics card.

I'm getting excellent temperatures out of it ( 26C Idle / 35C Load ) and will overclock as soon as I've sort out all the ambiguous information about my dated Z68 motherboard chip.

Easy to instal, although I recommend reading all the instructions up to the FAQ part to make sure you do this in one go ( firstly I had the wrong fixed screws on, then I installed it upside down. ) --- Also, I'd recommend a good mid-tower with enough space on the back and support for a 120 fan. My case is a Lian Li and, by the picture, you can tell it's a little bit "squeezed" -- but the braided cable give a lot of confidence it the kit and I absolutely love it.
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on 10 May 2016
I spent a lot of time researching my PC build before going ahead with the H100i by Corsair. I have had the product for a year and a couple of months before writing this review, so it's fair to say I've given it a good go! The processor I have this beast keeping cool is the Intel i7 4790k (not overclocked). It's a powerful processor, yet the system is running as well as it did the day I booted it up for the first time!

I will use the E.P.I.C scale for this review, judging 4 main things to consider when looking for a CPU cooler.

E - Ease of Use (8/10)
At first I didn't know where to start with this, it was the first time I had used something other than the stock cooler. Very quickly though, it was easy to install and ensure safe connection to the CPU and the case. Took a few attempts but overall a very pleasant experience getting it set up.

P - Price (9/10)
I got it at a bargain price of £75 during a promotion last year, so it is fair to say my score for this is going to be higher than the average price point! For the price paid, I don't think I could ask for a better performance. It is only a 9 however as I weighed up the standard price of roughly £99-110, which is a little more, and reduces the "bang for buck" ratio. Still, I think at this price, you're not going to get anything that performs much better, Corsair have cooling down to a tee!

I - Innovation (10/10)
Corsair have created a product that not only performs well, but runs in almost complete silence, and that you never need to maintain. As mentioned above, I've had this running pretty heavily under high load from gaming for over a year, and the system is still running cool and at great smooth speeds. If this isn't a direct result of the H100i then I would be very surprised!

C - Content (9/10)
A very premium looking product, well fit to reign over your supreme Central Processing Unit. The flashy light on the Corsair logo is a nice touch, and if you have a glass panel looks fantastic to show off in your build. The fans are well built, run quietly and the whole product just comes together really nicely.

I would definitely recommend this product, especially if you can grab it at a great price like I did. There are newer units available in the market today, but I don't think many of them would compare to the H100i in price + performance + reliability.

Thanks for reading, I hope this review helped, please do share an up-vote if it did! My reviews are completely independent and written from an unbiased viewpoint. Good luck and have fun!
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on 24 January 2015
This water cooler is brilliant it keeps my cpu cool that cool In fact I can't get it above 21'c even with the fans on the lowest rpm and I'd like it to be around 40'c so this is very powerful
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on 21 June 2016
Initially, I wanted to do a custom loop but I didn't have the confidence. Close-loop coolers offer similar performance for a third of the price.
Corsair's 5 year warranty and coverage if their coolers leak was the step in confidence I needed, to go ahead and trade in my Noctua DH-14 for the Corsair H110i GT.

Pros:
Pump is absolutely silent regardless of quiet or performance mode.
Great cooling that edges out or competes with bulky high-end air coolers.
Clean aesthetics.
Easy installation and maneuverability for removing GPU latch on top slot.
Included fans are a nice touch

Cons:
Included fans are loud and click at certain RPMS
This CLC (closed loop cooler) without the fans for £15-20 cheaper would have been a great option.
Screws seem too long - I'm using nuts to create a stand off - not necessary although I wanted to take the extra precaution as the screws are too close for comfort when coming into proximity of the radiator fins.

My experience:
I've recorded a -2 degree difference over the old Noctua NH D-14 - not quite what other's have stated however, this depends on a variety of variables such as, room temperature, computer placement (floor, high shelf, desk) and environment. I have phenomenal air flow using a Corsair 780T which could be the reason I see a smaller difference than others using the same cooler and reaping larger temperature drops.

I'm using a push-pull configuration with the stock fans pulling at 1360RPM and pushing are two Phanteks PH-F140XP 140mm fans also at 1360RPM - (there may be another degree or two to be dropped with this due to imbalances with static pressure, restricting additional heat dissipation, although, I haven't had enough time to experiment as of yet).
(I prefer to keep the fans at low RPMS because they make so much noise through the sheer amount of air they produce as well as static pressure and I find under 1400RPM the ticking sound is inaudible).

Features:
The H110i RGB lighting, configurable inside the Corsair link software which I have had absolutely no problems with. You can set performance and colour profiles, my favorite being 3 custom colours of your choosing to display range in temperatures e.g. Green 0-40c Yellow 41-55c Red 56c onward, which will change when your CPU hits those temperatures.

You may also set: fan curves, visual temperature layout of your PC showing all monitor-able temperatures in a case, recording real-time & saving to text document, Graphing, Home page/tab, set notifications when temperatures are hit e.g. to shut down the PC in case of pump failure or set fans to percentage to increase cooling and trigger a particular light to signify this (pictures included).

Another thing some may not know about closed-loop cooler's such as Corsairs, Arctic and NZXT to name a few; can also be used on graphics cards with brackets such as the G10 for Maxwell (Nvidia 900 series) cards I believe providing compatibility - Pretty awesome!

I have included a pictures of Corsair Links options and my PC to show how the aesthetics of this cooler can complement ones build.

Final Note:

If you're looking for top performance in a slim form factor, quiet operation with a stylish design this is a GREAT choice. Not just for the average consumer but for semi-enthusiasts too. CPU's are more power efficient and produce less heat meaning, they really don't need large radiators over 280mm in 25mm-28mm thickness to dissipate the heat - a custom loop just for a CPU would be overkill and this was my predicament that lead me to the H110i GT

If I could change one thing, it would be an option to buy the cooler without the fans as most people will replace the stocks ones; don't get me wrong, they're powerful fans but the noise to performance ratio is way out. A price of say £70-80 instead of £90-100 makes this a more attractive pricing for a product pit against the top large air cooling alternatives.
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on 21 June 2016
The good:

Installed it on Socket 1151 Skylake CPU (i7 6700k). Idle temps are 23-24 degrees and never exceed 45 on full load, so it does the cooling job very well. I haven't tried to overclock the CPU yet, but I assume it will work just fine if you wanna go above the 4.0GHz frequency. Warranty is 5 years, good enough for me.

The bad:

1.The pump itself is too noisy. I am not talking about the fans (which, btw are horribly loud are were replaced), i'm talking about the pump itself, the motor inside the mount is loud! I have a 3 year old H80i which is dead silent. I guess Corsair have changed their manufacturing process and the new ones suck.

2.When hardware comes with software (Corsair Link) a company has to make sure the software actually works. Apart from very unintuitive, Corsair Link just sucks. You can search online for in depth reviews.

3.The fans could be of better quality. On low RPMs they are -kind of- quiet. On anything above that they become too loud. If you hate loud fans like I do, include some good quality 140mm radiator fans (like Noctua, Phanteks etc), which will add a good 25-40 pounds to your investment.

4.This is the most important one. I hate the mess of wires coming off the block that you somehow need to make look good. The Corsair Link cable is on the bottom and points toward the back of the board making it difficult to route. Would have been better if it was on top and went straight out. The cable connecting the pump to the mobo is very long (how far can you go from the cpu location to the cpu fan connection?) and very thin. Not impressed with the cable quality. The thick tubes connecting the pump to the radiator are solid but too stiff, making it hard to place them on a wanted position in the case.
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