Many people might be thinking, "Well, what exactly IS British cuisine? Is there such a thing?" That's precisely what Paul Richardson sets out to explore. He dislikes a lot of what he finds, particularly in terms of the general public's eating habits at home, the proliferation of poor-quality food in high street outlets, and the blandness of supermarket produce (and our blind unquestioning acceptance of it).
But he also finds much to celebrate, in top-notch farm produce, passionate restaurateurs, and the persistence of local delicacies and definitive regional signature dishes. The latter is probably the most positive and intriguing thread running through the book, and I really felt a sense of discovery as I followed his journey around Britain while he sampled various foods specific to a region. His mission, to prove not only that there is such a thing as British cuisine but that it includes some genuine gems of real quality, is highly laudable.
However, I don't think this book will capture any floating voters. You already have to have some passion for, or interest in, good produce, farmers markets, and interesting regional oddities in order to go along with him. Very few or no casual readers will investigate this book. I was also mildly irritated by his rather precious, ultra-middle-class manner on occasions; and he unquestioningly champions the wild, the fresh-farm-reared and the organic while universally dismissing that which enjoys popular mass consumption, without going too far into why this situation prevails.
Those caveats aside, I found it a compelling, informative and entertaining read, and you can't help but warm to his passion for the subject. But, sadly, I fear that it will amount to no more than preaching to the converted. However, if you read this review and are interested, I definitely recommend Cornucopia.