Many people might be thinking, "Well, what exactly IS British cuisine? Isthere such a thing?" That's precisely what Paul Richardson sets out toexplore. He dislikes a lot of what he finds, particularly in terms of thegeneral public's eating habits at home, the proliferation of poor-qualityfood in high street outlets, and the blandness of supermarket produce (andour blind unquestioning acceptance of it).
But he also finds much to celebrate, in top-notch farm produce, passionaterestaurateurs, and the persistence of local delicacies and definitiveregional signature dishes. The latter is probably the most positive andintriguing thread running through the book, and I really felt a sense ofdiscovery as I followed his journey around Britain and he sampled variousfoods specific to a region. His mission, to prove not only that there issuch a thing as British cuisine but that it includes some genuine gems ofreal quality, is highly laudable.
However, I don't think this book will capture any floating voters. Youalready have to have some passion for, or interest in, good produce,farmers markets, and interesting regional oddities in order to go alongwith him. Very few or no casual readers will investigate this book. I wasalso mildly irritated by his rather precious, ultra-middle-class manner onoccasions; and he unquestioningly champions the wild, thefresh-farm-reared and the organic while universally dismissing that whichenjoys popular mass consumption, without going too far into why thissituation prevails.
Those caveats aside, I found it a compelling, informative and entertainingread that will sadly amount to no more than preaching to the converted.But if you read this and are interested, I do recommend it.