...but it doesn't come through here. First, this is a pretty hefty book-164 pages with long sections of unbroken text, small print, and narrow margins. About half is repetition, then there's the twenty-odd pages of kind of pointless anecdotes about friends and climbing areas, and a total of about five pages of reasons why you might not want to do the things the author prescribes. So what's in the remaining fifty-seven pages?
It starts with a physiology discussion that is either so oversimplified as to be meaningless, or just plain wrong (my favorite: `VO2max [is] the maximum amount of air your lungs can hold') and which illustrates a fundamental misunderstanding of muscular vs. respitory function on the part of the author. In her defense, though, some of these concepts are extremely complicated, poorly documented, and in some cases virtually unique to climbing.
The book then goes into a bunch of tests to determine your weaknesses based on the grade you climb. Interesting in an `I'll show you mine if you show me yours' kind of way, but it seems to me that anyone reading a book that uses the words `creatine phosphate system', would already know their weaknesses. Having said that, the advice `train your weaknesses, not your strengths' can't be stressed enough.
Then we get into specific movements on a campus board (a device you shouldn't get within ten feet of unless you consider .12a a warm-up grade) and a system board (something you probably won't ever run into unless you live in Boulder.) The prescribed workouts are kind of obvious-basically simple strategies to climb harder or longer or more (e.g.: climb a route until failure, then lower quickly to an easier section and get back on.) There's no discussion of how these individual workouts should be combined to create a coherent daily schedule.
The section on the extremely important concept of periodization is so convoluted that it confused even me-and I read the Journal of Applied Physiology for fun. The author finishes up with a discussion of individual moves (with photos,) a section on injury prevention that doesn't really go anywhere, extensive advice on motivating, a huge photo spread on stretching, bad advice on taping, a glossary that looks like it was copied out of an old textbook and doesn't seem to track back to what's been discussed (though I can't be sure because, inexplicably, there's no index), and so on.
As much as I hate to give a fellow climber a one star, I can't figure out why this book was written-it covers no new ground, and the ground it does cover is unclear, incomplete, and sometimes inaccurate. Maybe a lot of this results from the author trying to create a book that would speak equally to an unmotivated 5.9 climber and a .15a hopeful, I don't know.
My advice to you? If you're trying to go from 5.10 to 5.11: climb a lot and focus on your technique; you'll get there. 5.11 to 5.12: Buy Eric Horst's much more straight-forward `How to Climb 5.12.' Beyond 5.12: Get Dale Goddard's `Performance Rock Climbing.'