on 10 January 2010
A really good book, highly recommended to everyone who wants to learn how face unforseen events up on a route. Written in a very clear and outspoken style, when doubts arise you find immediately the right photo or illustration below.
I found it being a good book to read and study, but especially to exercise with. It's very analytical, explaining manoeuvres step by step, leaving nothing unclear behind.
Moreover, this book truly teach you how to improvise solutions presenting the best choices in a complete range of general situations. Then many secondary options are reported, depending on gear -even very poor- and other, covering particular circumstances.
Perhaps that's the best feature of the book, describing primarily a general scheme of action and how to act safely, then reporting a detailed sequence and varying examples.
While acting, this helps you to think more about your final aims rather than memorize a sequence of manoeuvres, which most of times will not fit exactly the countless possibilities of real world.
However, to meet this need too, the last section presents 29 real life scenarios, from the simplest to the toughest. They really make you reason and eventually understand the importance of being well skilled in self-rescue.
I spent hours exercising in safe environment with this book, all you need is a rope, carabiners and slings/cord. Now i feel more comfortable while climbing on multipitch routes, having a rack of choices and a clear scheme of action in mind.
Every climber could find this book very helpful, but for those who think skills and preparation are mandatory when your team is in trouble is a must have.
Unsurprisingly, this book is endorsed by UIAA.