I'm pleased to say that in recent years the art of bartending seems to be reviving its self with a plom! While the Mojito is still way ahead of its rivals in terms of its popularity, I can still remember a time not so long ago when Woo Woos, Sex on the Beach's and Long Island Ice Teas were the only drinks ever to be ordered outside the few key places who knew the score.
No doubt the reason behind this change is a continued enthusiasm of today's bartender who seems more eager to learn, experiment and offer customers a wide range of different flavours born past and present. This enthusiasm, coupled with an appreciation for the history of cocktails is what seems to be making today's social climate more accepting of quality mixed drinks.
This is where the legends come in. Without the knowledge passed down by the greats through the ages, bartenders simply would not have the resources to learn about the age old methods that make mixed drinks so fantastic! Calebrese is a prime example of this. In his book he does his best to tell the story behind each drink listed through the pages. Furthermore before he even gets to the main bulk of cocktails on offer, he spends time discussing the history of the cocktail its self as well as offering a detailed section on the history of the martini.
No doubt, this book will offer a lot to the bartender looking to learn about the history of cocktails. Perhaps not however, to the bartender who has already read De Groff or Regan. Where this book does fall down is in the actual recipes used. Today, many classic drinks have managed to remain popular by allowing themselves to be adapted by bartenders to suit more appropriately the palates of their guests. There are therefore, certain recipes that in today's climate, just do not work. The Waldorph cocktail, for example, needs only the absinthe content as a lining on the glass and not as a component in the stirred drink, otherwise, many of its subtleties become lost by the overpowering anis.
Overall however, having read this book when first starting out as a bartender, I found the information very useful indeed and still on occasion refer back to Calebrese for certain segments of information. There are other books out there that may do the job a bit better, but I doubt any will will contain the immense amount of cheese involved in some of Calebrese's cocktail descriptions!