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More About the Author
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Review
"Wonderful . . . [Duane is] an ontologist of dudedom, Henry David Thoreau doing aerials on a fiberglass board." - Will Blythe, "Esquire"
"Enthralling. Duane has an honest take on surf culture, seeing both the romance and the irony . . . Best of all are his evocative, compelling observations about nature: fresh and thrilling descriptions of scenery and life on the coast." - David Sheff, "Los Angeles Times"
"Enthralling. Duane has an honest take on surf culture, seeing both the romance and the irony . . . Best of all are his evocative, compelling observations about nature: fresh and thrilling descriptions of scenery and life on the coast." - David Sheff, "Los Angeles Times"
Product Description
"Caught Inside" is Daniel Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Following the turn of the seasons, it is also the story of a young man's deepening knowledge of his native landscape and its history. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the intricate art of surfboard design, and lyrical, sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna that inhabit the Pacific wilderness. In Duane's company are cormorants, herons, gulls, sea lions, whales, and dolphins; with him we learn about the physiology of a pelican's dive, the mating habits of otters, and the obscene contents of a shark's stomach. In a wryly entertaining parallel narrative Duane traces the cultural history of the sport and the settling of California. From Captain Cook and Mark Twain to Robinson Jeffers and Jack London, from portraits of famous (and infamous) surfers to an analysis of the perverse significance of Gidget movies, Duane expertly uncovers the myths and symbols bound up in one of our most vibrant and recognizably American subjects.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
I am a non-surfer but was totally absorbed by Duane's writing. In contrast to much sports writing, the great achievements are a subtext - it sounds cliché, but what underpins the book is Duane's choice to make a total change of lifestyle to achieve a dream and live more truly. Duane writes with a sensitive awareness of self and the environment that surrounds him. Sufficiently mature to be aware of when in a moment of anger he had become that which he hated and apologise for it, balanced by enough childlike humour to describe an otter 'backstroking' past him. His observation of the Californian coast is eagle eyed, from the mustard flowers and worn Cyprus trees to the seals, otters, birds and big cats that inhabit the world he shares. And then there's the surfing...! All in all a great book, if you liked El Capitan you will find this similar but much more fluid.
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
I am not a surfer, I probably never will be a surfer. But this book captured me, not because it's about surfing, but because it's about one person's attempt to feel, experience, and then communicate his total communion with a rare piece of our Earth --- the Pacific Coast of California where the waves wash up on the Point. It's nature writing at its most profound....an attempt to take one little piece of the globe and get across what it's all about. I read this, wierdly enough, while camping at Tahoe, and it transformed my whole camping experience,as I tried to appreciate and then replicate the detailed beauty of view Duane brought to the Santa Cruz coast up in the mountains I was wandering, and then tried to feel hiking/tramping/backpacking the way he obviously feels surfing. Read it to appreciate surfing, to learn the ocean,to feel a piece of real peace. Sweet stuff!
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
Format:Paperback
Daniel Duane has captured what is undoubtedly the feelings of new and not so new surfers the world over. This is an honest account of what happens to you after you've ridden your first wave. That is that your life will never be the same again. And Duane comes as close to explaining why as anyone since Jerry Lopez. It has nothing to do with ability and everything to do with how surfing makes you feel and understand your place in the world. It has nothing to do with competing with others and everything to do with competing with yourself. This book has soul and it has it because its straightforward honesty allows you to escape into another dimension. It won't tell you how to perform a cutback or a floater but it will give you an insight into why, when you attempt a cutback or a floater you come closer to understanding yourself than ever before. Buy this book if you like surfing, the ocean, nature or you just love well written voyages of discovery.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
Excellent
well written, fun, and even informative! Great sense of humor and makes you feel you're right there as well. Read more
Published on 15 Feb 2010 by Dawn
Excellent read
I read this while living and working in California for 3 years, it's was fun trying to work out where some of the "secret spots" were, and his depiction of Santa Cruz and the mixed... Read more
Published on 30 May 2007 by Mawgan Wilkins
this is how it feels....
I bought this book based on other reviews and really enjoyed it as the author does manage to convey much of what if feels and what drives you to surf. Read more
Published on 27 Sep 2006 by mobygocrespo
A fantastic book
This book is well worth owning. It is amusing, self-depreciating, and extremely well written avoiding most of the cliches and painting a beautiful picture of the Californian coast. Read more
Published on 29 Dec 2005 by T. M. Rogers
Accessible, reflective and informative
Following Duane from the fringes to the heart of (Californian) surf-culture feels like a personal experience. Read more
Published on 25 Jan 2002 by lstafford@touchbase.co.uk
Experience surfing and the CA coast from anywhere !
A great book for surfers and non-surfers alike.
I read this book after visiting California last year. Read more
I read this book after visiting California last year. Read more
Published on 29 Nov 2001
Worth reading
Not 'brilliant literature' but enjoyable (kept me reading), informative (very at times) and captures some of the feeling of being 'a surfer'. Read more
Published on 2 Aug 2001
Factual, yet poetic - a very good read.
An inspiring book for anyone caught in the monotony of work and who craves to return to elemental aspects of life. Read more
Published on 5 Oct 2000
This book caputred everthing that is great about surfing.
Speachless.
Published on 18 Jun 1999
Commited to Surfing
As a land-locked non-surfer, I read this book to get an idea of what surfing is like. I can't vouch for its accuracy but it did seem to capture something about the reality of... Read more
Published on 28 May 1999
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