Calvados: The Spirit of Normandy [Illustrated] [Hardcover]

Calvados is first the fresh crush of apple, followed by a breath of fire, trailing spice. And Calvados, The Spirit of Normandy, is one lovely companion to this underappreciated spirit. I wish only that there were a Kindle edition that came with each nicely hard bound copy. As nicely as is sits with me in my reading chair, it is too big to lug around the orchards and caves. Yes, the paper is heavyweight and glossy. The format cleanly and comfortably laid out. But at more than750 pages, I have no room in my rucksack. This is no travel guide.

The first two hundred or so pages are all preparatory to meet the makers. They will stimulate both novice and aficionado. This is one book to prepare for doing extended field work. As Calvados sipped is the aperitif to build your appetite for the strenuous lunch soon to be set before us, so too will this book fortify the mind to encounter all that lies ahead. It will serve as your digestif upon returning home, laden with bottled booty.

Mr. Neal is your Chief of Staff, worthy of an Eisenhower planning Operation Overlord. He nimbly lays before us just the right map for each objective, clear and nicely colored, spreading across two commanding pages when fitting. All vital historical and cultural information is smartly organized at the proper level of detail. Luck favors the prepared, mon ami.

Mr. Neal does take a couple of pot shots at us Southerners, referring to our impulsive, hot Latin blood. He does so to contrast the redoubtable Norman, who is apt to be more patient, humble and friendly. Fair enough, I suppose. The Normans in our village fit that bill. Still, we of Armagnac can be friendly in our own animated fashion, especially for Calvados poured over our Agen Plums.

Mr. Neal provides a primer on climate, geology and soils. He is a mean man with a map. There is enough here for us to map these characteristics to each Calvados we sample, so to easily understand why we taste what we do. Especially so when he feels we are ready to take on the fruits themselves. He explains the role of sweet, bitter sweet, bitter and acid apples, down to the specific varietals of each category. For once we are supplied with a thorough inclusion of pears - they usually get short shrift.

When he talks sugar levels, he specifies measured density, not that this book is in any way thuddingly technical. But he methodically treats all contributory aspects of taste. No magic or arcane argot, or mystical warblings you are apt to get from the self-important. I was surprised at how quickly he enables one to be adept at the analysis of flavors in the mouth and the air in the nose.

Tree anatomy? You bet. Too much for today's mission? Then flip over to fruit processing or to his play-by-play of cider fermentation. After all, what would such a book be without mention of cider? The section on distillation has enough of the basic chemistry relevant to Calvados that I am tempted to set up my pot still. And he does have a nice bit on pot stills.

I disagree with Mr. Neal on one point. In his discussion of barrels, he objects to the use of foreign barrels such as those formerly used to age Jerez. Well, if you have ever tasted what old Sherry barrels do for The Macallan single malt, you might concede that among the lands of Calvados there may be enough room for a few special barrels.

The main reason for this book is the expansive treatment for each region, producer by producer. Each is given a page or maybe four. Micro-climate, fruit varietals and methods are smartly written. Then he reviews each cave's products followed by mercifully brief tasting notes. A green horizontal bar provides local contact information. A glossary follows.

You are about to embark upon the Great Crusade, toward which we have
striven these many months. The eyes of the world are upon you. The
hopes and prayers of apple-loving people everywhere march with you.

I received an industry copy of Calvados: The Spirit of Normandy the day that it was published by The Wine Appreciation Guild. At over 700 pages the book is as comprehensive as anything ever written on the subject of that fine brandy, whether in French or English. If the point size of the small type was increased, the content would have stretched to beyond 800 pages. Every single producer of Calvados is featured, in addition to their means of production.

Charles Neal (author) triumphs here not only in his completist coverage, but also in his prognostication that the heretofore unheralded virtues of Calvados will soon be discovered by the spirits world, mainstream and cognoscenti alike. No other Calvados authority in the United States can claim to know as much as Mr Neal, and yet he graciously gives credit to those whose works precede his own.

Watch intently for the emergence of an apple brandy industry in America, and look closely at Washington, the apple capital of the world, to provide the best examples! Thank you to Charles Neal for amply providing much-needed inspiration!