The Way of St James or El Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in Northern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of Saint James are buried. Mullen is an American author living in Scotland, and his book is a modern day journey following the path into Spain from France that pilgrims have followed for over a thousand years.
Legend holds that St. James's remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain where he was buried in the city of Santiago de Compostela. As Mullen's stories along the way reveal, there are many stories of St James rescuing believers and arriving as a mysterious horseman in the eleventh hour to turn the direction of critical battles.
Mullen's book is a conversation between past and present. He cleverly overlays a strong sense of all the pilgrims that tramped the many miles across Spain over the centuries against a lively diary of his own journey. We meet as broad and strange a mix as any Chaucerian tale, some following the path as an act of religious observance, but most, like Mullen, looking for something. Mullen reminds us on many occasions of the mystery associated with the Camino, which quickly feels more than a route, and more like a spiritual journey. The Camino mends you, one pilgrim writes. A saying has it that the true Camino begins when you reach the end.
Mullen takes a self-consciously objective perspective, stating from the outset that he is not a person of faith, but using his diary of conversations, encounters, shared foods and eccentric fellow travellers as a way of reflecting on some of the big themes - the importance of myth-making and story-telling, and what we mean today by a sense of the soul. It quickly becomes clear that there is another kind of conversation going on here - between the detached observer and one who searches for something. Mullen writing about his parents, particularly his mother, reveals a longing for some kind of certainty or clarity, and it is this longing which informs his journey of the mind.
There is a real journey here, too - a reliable travelogue which surprises, and a lively sense of humour. Perhaps the biggest revelation is how little has changed in a thousand years - even though pilgrims communicate now by email, they are still exchanging stories and passing on tips about places to avoid, still sleeping in rough dormitories and sharing bread, olives and a little cheese and sausage at midday. Some travel in style (the legend is that those who travel in comfort miss the real experience), others in poverty, living off the comfort of strangers. And there is comfort, too - alongside the tourist rip-offs there is unexpected generosity in the villages they travel too. This may be a 21st century journey, which for many readers not familiar with the more catholic aspects of faith will be uncharted territory, but it is a timeless journey too. The path Mullen takes us shows us that the medieval is still amongst us, and all those who still travel this route into Spain every year are joining that continues forever.
There is an ending to Mullen's journey, in an evocative moment where he does what pilgrims have traditionally done. Firstly they receive their laminated Compostella (a certificate from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago for pilgrims who have walked 100km). In the middle ages this earned you not only better meals but a stronger foothold on heaven). The final ritual is a dip in the freezing Atlantic at Cape Finisterre and a walk on the beach to collect a scallop, the traditional symbol of the pilgrim. A cold reawakening before the realities of life kick back in, but as Mullen observes, many are already planning their return to the Camino.
This is book that really gets under the skin of the pilgrimage experience.