Julie Duff's first book on British cakes, Cakes Regional and Traditional is one of my best-loved and most-baked from baking books so I was eager to read and try recipes from this book. It follows the same format as her previous book, snippets of the history of the cake followed by a clear and simple recipe but it lacks the coherence of her first book,perhaps because her subject is so broad.
Some of her recipes were less than convincing. The Ras-El- Hanout Cake on page 148 requires the fruit to be soaked in Earl Grey Tea and the method and resulting cake resemble a traditional British Boiled Fruit Cake more than anything a Moroccan is likely to make. Where did she get the recipe from? Or did she make it up, thinking the use of Ras-El-Hanout spices would be enough to make an ordinary boiled fruit cake Moroccan? She gives two recipes for Caribbean Rum Cakes both of which use black treacle to attain the requisite dark colour. This is totally incorrect as treacle would give a bitter tinge to the cakes. What is required is Burnt Sugar Syrup which one can either make or buy. Then there is the White Mountain Cake on page 108 which in the recipe given is just a plain sponge wheares I always understood it to be a layer cake lavishly covered in white icing.
On the other hand one also gets the impression that the author is making a praiseworthy attempt to save some lesser known cakes from oblivion as she did very sucessfully in Cakes Regional and Traditional. The Indonesian Lapis Legit Cake which uses 30 egg yolks is a case in point as few people would want to be so profligate with egg yolks nowadays. Or even the relatively restrained 18 egg yolks in the Bibinca from Goa. I don't know whether the author has tried these recipes but I don't intend to.
In fact not many recipes appeal to me in this book but there are a few good ones: Apple Streusel Cake, MelkTert, Viennese Curd Cheesecake but perhaps not enough to recommend buying the book.