Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950s (Schiffer Book for Designers & Collectors) [Paperback]

This book begins with an interesting overview of the beginnings of the home-sewing pattern industry, and has many interesting tidbits on that alone. But the real treat is page upon page of reproductions of the fronts of pattern envelopes from the fifties, most in color, and all beautiful. Hundreds of ideas for clothing for today.

THIS BOOK, "BLUEPRINTS OF FASHION -- HOME SEWING PATTERNS OF THE 1950s", by WADE LABOISSONNIERE is truly a treasure-trove for those who remember, fondly, the sewing patterns of this era. In a book of 175 numbered pages -- most of them filled to the brim with beautiful full-colour pictures of dress-pattern envelopes, designs from store counter pattern catalogues, and advertisements of the era -- one cannot, of course, expect to find every dress pattern created during this era. But the author certainly gives as wide a sampling as possible! The paper is wonderfully "slick"...like that found in Vogue and other magazines, only, (wonderfully!) just a bit thicker! The author obviously feels deeply about the delights of his subject matter -- it shows, and comes theough with every page!

The very beginnings of the pattern industry are shown, beginning with a dress pattern of 1856 -- published in a magazine, with pattern pieces given! Patterns from companies now, sadly, no longer in business, (or so I believe -- please correctr me if I am wrong!) -- "Hollywood", "Advance", "Spadea", and "DuBarry" are also featured. The history of dress patterns of the 1950s, of course, dominates this book...but it's very nice to have background of the years before, (and after...1960s and '70s patterns also appear, on fewer pages of course), as well!

Pages devoted to the merchandising of printed dress patterns, and their manufacture, are also included, (with fascinating photos of same!) And printed patterns for MEN are not neglected -- though I wish more were shown.

Whether the author is aware of this or not, he seems to have captured a genuine rarity in fashion-pattern envelopes. Most of the drawn models on fashion-pattern envelopes either seem to be sayinng, "Look at me -- I'm SO glad to be wearing this!" or "Look at me -- I'm so fashionable and 'smart' to be wearing this!" But on page 121, in a large illustration of the envelope for Simplicity Pattern 1889, are three views of a cloak, (cloak, cape and cape-jacket)-- and the "models" on this package envelope look so decidedly UNHAPPY! Still pretty, but very unhappy! One wonders what went on in the world, (or in the artist's life), to make these achingly sad expressions on these still very pretty faces....)

Information in the back of the book includes how to store collections of dress patterns and dress pattern catalogues, an index of dating patterns, (for instance, McCall's patterns in the year 1949 ran from Number 7565 to 7867. A "Price Guidelines" guide follows, with pattern prices expected, at the publication date, (1999), for General Patterns, Specialty Patterns, Patterns of selected pattern makers, Sewing Books, Advertising Posters, Counter Books, Sewing Books, and even Vogue woven labels and Singer Molded-Tou Dress Forms, ($35-$85 -- I had never heard of them either, till I read this book!) A full page of "Notes" follows, and after this is a complete bibliography.

This IS a wonderful book -- for all the reasons stated above. So -- why do I give it only 4 stars? The reason is because MOST of the beautiful, full-colour pattern illustrationsa are squeezed in, six to a page! This makes most of the illustrations only 2 1/2 x 3 3/8 inches in size! Some of the 6-per-page illustrations are a bit bigger, (2 1/2 x 4 inches)....bur this is still pretty small! NOT all of the illustrations are so small, however -- some even, (wonderfully!) take up a whole page! Layouts of pattern designs differ from page to page, to make the book all the more interesting to read -- but the majority of the pattern pictures are still far too tiny for my taste. (and, sadly, my eyes as well.) Pages 129 and 132, even try to put SEVEN illustrations on one page! True, each and every illustration has a welcome line or two of caption, with addtional important information. But, please -- less "white space" and bigger pictures!

I know that "slick" paper produces the best reproductions -- and I am glad to see it used here. Still, if economically producing a book with

slick paper entails micro-miniaturizing of a great majority of the pattern illustrations, I feel something should be done to remedy this error. My suggestion: If feasible, use not slick paper, but the highest-quality, non-acidic 20 or more pound typewriting paper. Then, I would keep the same size page, but put the binding on the short side of the page, instead of the longer side of the page. I would then have the majority of pages to have 3, same-sized illustrations per page as the usual format -- with 1 illustration-, 2 illustration-, and 4 illustration-per-page format given, to some fewer pages as well, to make the books format more "interesting". Maybe even, the present 6-illustrations-per-page format as well...but for one or two pages only...please!!!!

P.S. A PERSONAL VIEW:.....Aside from too many tiny illustrations, this is one fabulous book! In this age where torn jeans and overalls masquerade as "fashion", (they could never be called "style", in my opinion), and too-revealing, too-sex-oriented clothing abounds, (why?), this book, and those like it, are oases in the clothing "desert" which now seems to engulf the world. Wake up, people -- torn jeans and overalls are a pre-packaged poverty look! How I wish more people honoured their ancestors, as I do -- ancestors who worked SO hard, though poor, to at least look presentable, and wear clothing that made them at least look up-and-coming, on the occasions that demanded it. One need not put on full Islamic "purdah", or a monk's habit, (unless one wishes to), to look neat, modest, and fashionable! The gorgeous fashions in this book -- dress patterns for formal and casual wear, for men, women and children -- can certainly be adapted for today's world! Either find similar clothing patterns, look for similar clothing in stores, (there still is some!), or demand that your favourite manufactures make STYLISH clothing...like that within this book...so that people may feel they are on the way up in the world, and not on the way down!

This is a *wonderful* reference for anyone interested in vintage fashion or vintage patterns. Wade Laboissonniere tells the history with page upon page of breathtaking photographs of patterns from the past. Each page truly is more delightful than the last. I will be ordering Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1940s immediately and can only hope that Mr. Laboissonniere is working on the 1960s and 1970s.

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