Living nearby, I have formed a deep attachment to the Aveyron, which remains one of the most rural and least spoilt departéments (counties) in France. It forms a bridge between the mountainous Massif Central and southern France and boasts some glorious countryside. It also has 10 plus beaux villages - and many more which could justifiably aspire to the title - and a high concentration of prehistoric monuments.
As well as being a geographical crossroads it's a place where ancient meets modern. Nowhere is this more effectively symbolised than in the magnificent, gigantic Millau Viaduct, which carries the A75 motorway over the Tarn Valley. Designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster and built by the Eiffage group, this state-of-the-art tribute to modern technology was inaugurated in 2004.
Ancient successfully meets modern is one of the principal themes of Thirza Vallois' book Aveyron, a Bridge to French Arcadia. Her discovery of Aveyron was an accident. She is a well-known authority on Paris, especially its hidden corners, having lived there for years. In fact, she was in two minds about whether she should write the Aveyron book and encourage the hordes to move in, c.f. Peter Mayle and A Year in Provence. She did it anyway. Her book describes her discovery of the département over several years, starting with the high moors of the Aubrac in NE Aveyron and gradually working her way around most of the rest.
A warning: this is not a guide book. It's not a Lonely Planet-type travelogue complete with `where to stay', `where to eat', `what to do' information. Don't expect detailed maps or itineraries. Rather, this book is a personal odyssey, full of anecdotes, personal reflections and descriptions of meetings with the Aveyronnais themselves. Far from being a byword for backwardness and rural decay, Aveyron is one of the places in France where the quality of life is highest.
The book is organised along thematic lines, each of the 11 chapters dealing with a specific aspect of Aveyron, although the theme often coincides with a geographical area. I thought I knew Aveyron pretty well, particularly the western part, but I learned a whole load more from this book. For example: I previously knew very little about the Aveyron wine industry or the 19th-century phylloxera crisis that all but wiped it out; I wasn't aware that there were troglodyte villages; nor that part of northern Aveyron was once in the hands of the Grimaldi of Monaco. To my must-do list I have added countless entries.
Ms Vallois' writing style is vivid and dynamic and she draws you into the landscape with her, whether she is chasing the sunset or getting her first glimpse of Conques from an overlooking hill. There are some lovely photographs taken by Ms Vallois and photographer Patrice Geniez. I would have liked to see even more, although I know this would increase the price of the book.
My main quibble was the lack of an index, which meant slogging back and forth to re-find the things that particularly interested me.
But, with the minor caveats above, I can recommend this book if you want to get a real sense of Aveyron's history, landscapes, traditions and people.
The author sent me a copy of her book but this was after I had published a longer version of this review on my own blog. That review was based on the Kindle version.